Vapor lock? Hydro lock? All I know is motor is locked. What do I do?
#1
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Vapor lock? Hydro lock? All I know is motor is locked. What do I do?
After 1 +hr run in rough water, 2500 rpm at times, got to the dock, tied up before loading onto trailer to wait for tide to come in alittle. About 45 min. later went to start motors. Turned starboard key and fired right up. Turned port key and heard nothing. Shut down other motor then tried to start the port one. I turned the key heard a click and that was it. Motor did not crank. I loaded onto trailer with other motor.
Any thoughts as to why motor locked up. They are procharged 502s. I did notice water dump for one intercooler had much less flow than normal, but engine temp did not change.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks
Any thoughts as to why motor locked up. They are procharged 502s. I did notice water dump for one intercooler had much less flow than normal, but engine temp did not change.
Any help is appreciated. Thanks
#3
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Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: Peoria, AZ, USA
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Did the motor try to move at all? Sure the starters not dead? Like Steve said then, pull the plugs. I'd crank it over by hand if you can get a socket on the crank pulley. Possible intercooler to intake leak?
Craig
Craig
#5
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I think the floats are too high in the carb. When hitting big water the motors will flood for a moment then clear. I pulled 2 plugs and they are both wet(gas). Pulled one on the other motor it was also wet. Both ran great all day.
#6
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Every time I've hit the key and heard a only click without turning over, I've replaced a battery, starter, or starter solenoid. Assuming your batteries power both engines, the batteries can be ruled out.
#9
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Ill say starter on every car or boat the click sound was usually
batt or seleniod take a rubber mallet or block of wood
tap on the seleniod if it works u found it or
u can put a volt meter between the 2 large terminals on the seleniod should read 12 volts when not starting
soon as u turn the key it would be normal for it to be 0
that means the voltage is then getting to the brushes
if its still not trying to turn then u need to rebuild the starter
batt or seleniod take a rubber mallet or block of wood
tap on the seleniod if it works u found it or
u can put a volt meter between the 2 large terminals on the seleniod should read 12 volts when not starting
soon as u turn the key it would be normal for it to be 0
that means the voltage is then getting to the brushes
if its still not trying to turn then u need to rebuild the starter
#10
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Albuquerque, NM
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check your drive!!!
I just had this happen to me and after going through all the normal checks, i.e., pulling plugs, checking & testing starter, & attempting to crank the engine by hand(no luck). I thought for sure I had a broken motor, but because I had no indications of any problems throughout the day, I refused to believe it.
Anyway, long story short, I decided to pull the drive and inspect the gimbal bearing and the rest of the drive, which is when I found that I had broken a tooth off one of the upper gears and it had wedged itself between the forward & pinon gears.
I jumped back in the boat and tapped the key to reassure myself that the engine would still crank.
The bad news was that I had to rebuild the upper on my drive...the good news is that I did not waste time pulling the engine, worse having to rebuild an engine.
Hope this helps,
Don Baca
Triad Performance Marine
Anyway, long story short, I decided to pull the drive and inspect the gimbal bearing and the rest of the drive, which is when I found that I had broken a tooth off one of the upper gears and it had wedged itself between the forward & pinon gears.
I jumped back in the boat and tapped the key to reassure myself that the engine would still crank.
The bad news was that I had to rebuild the upper on my drive...the good news is that I did not waste time pulling the engine, worse having to rebuild an engine.
Hope this helps,
Don Baca
Triad Performance Marine