JRider

iTrader: (1)

You have twins...start swapping parts and see where the problem goes

antisocial

three month old ethanol gas will start to go bad .. pull fuel line off and let pump run in glass container see what it looks like.. the filters are under the fuel pumps he should have known to change them..if it has water in it you will know it better be clear if its foggy thats a good start you need to get all of it out and get fresh gas and always use fuel stabil...

offshore312

I'd take a hard look at the oil pressure switch. If it's not sending, the ECM will kill the engine to prevent damage...

Sizzle_Technology

Lil Red: I'm not sure if the fuel pressure was verified before and after both fuel pumps were installed. I was told after they were installed, the engine ran fine for 20 minutes. I went out there and I encounter the same issue I had before I called for service. The engine does start right back up after it stalls. Keep in mind, I had the technician came back out after I could not get the boat to stay running. He ran diagnostics on the engine and the fault codes were BAD CAM SENSOR and BAD CRANK SENSOR. He replaced both. After he replaced both sensors, he could not get the boat to run. The engine would crank but never fire/run to the point prior to him changing the sensors. He spent 8hrs the next day trying to figure the problem out. He never did. He said I need a new wiring assembly.
Yesterday, I undid everything he did. Removed both sensors, connected all the wires he took apart, etc...The boat is back to the point that the engines fires and starts but then stalls.
I'm not sure if there is an oil pressure safety. Maybe someone with more knowledge than me can chime in? I can hear the fuel relay pump go on for 4 seconds then stop.

BUP:Yes the tach works. When I crank the engine and it starts, I see the tach working. I do not have DTS throttles. The tech said he check the lanyards. How can I check myself? How can I by pass them? I do not have a fuel pressure indicator on my 2006 Formula 370 SuperSport.

Antisocial: That is a good question: did the tech change the screens when he changed the fuel pumps? I guess I will have to ask him. If he did not, can you tell me where they are? I will change them. This guy has already cost me 12hrs of labor with no results.

The technician unplugged every electrical connection to the engine to isolate the engine. He could not get the engine to run at all. It would crank but no start. I asked him if the CAM and CRANK sensor could be wrong or defective hence the reason the engine is not firing/starting, he was 100% sure it was not the problem. I removed them. I put back the older ones. The engine started but then stalled. I did replace the IAC. Same problem.

TO everyone providing advice, I really appreciate your recommendations.

Sizzle_Technology

One would assume since he changed both fuel pumps and said the engine was running for 20 minutes would indicate the fuel pressure was good. Am I wrong? How can I test the fuel pressure? I was thinking about taking the CAM & Crank sensor off my port engine and install them on the starboard engine would be a good starting point. If I get no where, then I will take off the TPS and do the same. Can you tell me where the fuel filter screen or Fuel cartridge people are referring to located? Do you think the fuel could go bad in 3 months? Does my engine have a fuel water separator? I've read on some forums that It should be checked. However, I was nor sure if they were referencing older engines. Your thoughts?

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

Have you swapped the computers from one engine to the other? 10 minute job to see if problem follows the computer or the engine.

Are there any follow on beeps after the initial beep when you turn the ignition key to on?

PCM (engine computer) can go bad, and you would not be the first to lose one on a 496. The IAC can kill the motor too, especially if it's a start, then sputter then quit. A bad IAC driver in the computer (fixable by Whipple) can look like a bad IAC when in fact it's the PCM itself.

Sizzle_Technology

I swapped the PCM from the other engine. No change. I do get ONE beep after the engine stalls. I did replace the IAC. No change. It starts then dies.I guess I can swap the IAC and PCM from the other engine and see if there is any change.
Jeff

Unlimited jd

iTrader: (5)

The tech may have done some diagnostics but you don't know which ones, if they were done properly and what the results were. If the boat came to me I would
Check all actual values in the scan tool, tps iac etc
Take a fuel sample
Check fuel pressure
Put a spark tester on a wire and see if it is going out as the motor dies (may or may not be able to catch this.)
Swap ECM
Swap crank sensor
If none of these leads to anything then ohm out all the wires from cam, crank etc to the PCM looking for an open circuit. You can prove out a bad harness vs just replacing it.
If you do these tests and record your findings I'm sure you'll track down your problem faster

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

My particular 496HOs are rigged with an inline bullet shaped fuel filter between the tank and the fuel water separator that is about the 5" long by 3" in diameter; give or take. When I had ethanol problems from fuel that had ethanol that was not advertised as such (had it been, I would have treated it), it ruined my fuel/water separators, my low pressure fuel pumps, and the bullet shaped fuel filters as well; so much so that they were rattling with crap inside of them. You can measure fuel pressure via a port that is on top of the engine, if you have the right diagnostic tool set.

Swapping the IAC and the PCM as pairs would be something I would do.

www.rinda.com makes a scanner that anyone can use. It's the best $500 you will spend on your boat. I don't leave home without it. I've posted about this several times here on OSO. You can clear your codes, re-fire the motor, and then see what else appears; without being at the mercy of a mechanic.

Sizzle_Technology

I did as you indicated. I swapped the IAC, CAM & Crank sensor, TPS, Clean out the fuel filter, no water in the fuel, swapped the ignition switch. I also took all the parts off the engine that would not run and put all of them on the good engine. All the parts worked fine on the good engine. This tells me that non of those parts were bad.

Today, i contacted the dealer who performed the service. He said the engine was running when he left. The dealer wants me to paid my bill before he sends someone out to look at my boat. I told him he did not fix my boat. Why would I pay him. I told him he is only throwing parts at my engine hoping something sticks.

Does anyone have any other ideas to check?
Thanks, Jeff