glassdave

iTrader: (1)

I typically get fifteen hundred a side when i do them for transom jobs and theres not a lot of room in that number but it is a fair and honest estimate. There are always going to be incidentals and "as long as im there" kind of things but a good mechanic will make you aware of them and also make you aware of any additionals to the final bill long before so there are no surprises. I tend to treat things I work on like my own and try to improve where I can, terminate wires at the proper length rather ther coil up excess, maybe a better routing etc. these kind of things can be done along the way. I like to encourage replacing old bilge pumps/hoses, raw water pumps, items that have a usable life. all these things will be minor additionals and worth your while doing. best to use a mechanic you trust and has referances.

delsol

Brian41--- i was more or less agreeing with you -- what i was getting at is it can be easy to pull the engines and have them sitting on a pallet ( and not always - but it helps when you've pulled them often enough that you get into the bilge with every tool required-- and that is not a good thing either). But the time adds up when installing both engines especially when they are not the same as what came out and doing everything that is neccesary-- but you know this...

anything closer than a far fetched guess is tough for doing this work, i know that i would not want to put a hard price on paper for this if someone came to me...

MDGperformance

we would charge around 2k labor plus parts,which would include pulling engines cleaning bilge inspecting bilge pumps and hoses,inspecting bravo water intake fitting,re install engines ,test run on hose and also water test boat,when engines are out battery cables,fuel lines and all rigging would be inspected any additional work needed would be extra labor charge.The other thing we always recommend if the boat is older and run in salt water is removing the gimbals and inspecting for corrosion,we have found most older ones are shot and need replacing easy to do with motors out

mickeymcclgn

iTrader: (1)

Yep that's the boat, I didn't have too much to do with the valve covers, all the trick ideas were his. I was just the wrench turner. Did all the mechanical stuff, but it turned out good. When do you plan on having the boat all back together?

Mustangcobra1353

iTrader: (1)

His boat is nice. I am jelous the valve covers are money. My boat is wrapped right now. I plan to have it done in March. Hope that does not mean August ha ha. Then the hunt for the correct prop will begin. From all I read that will be a huge project. 3 blade, 4 blade, cupped, labbed etc etc.

carter38

There are so many varibles that go into play when doing a swap. I have yet to do one that we having ending up changing alot of the rigging around to clean things up or finding problems that were unnoticed while the engines were in place. I would count on 1-2k. All depends on exhaust, mufflers, steering, captains call, they are all different. Just my .02

glassdave

iTrader: (1)

Very true, ya know after reading the range of replies it occurred to me how many different possibilities there really are here. In contrast to my above post i blew a coupler on my ScarabIII on a thrusday night, pulled the boat in the shop around noon on friday and was back in the water late that afternoon around six or seven. That was a true plug and play Merc R&R on bone stock installations with no changes. The exhaust was able to stay on the engines and all the rigging was in top shape, also did not have any aftermarket stuff like steering, coolers or strainers and was very straight forward. You also have to take into account what kind of boat its in, The Scarab has tons of room to work but on something like the 38 Donzi ZX its super tight and a pain to get to anything plus that factory rigging is ok at best and definitely needs improvement when going back together. Its also worth noting if you want the motors just pulled and new ones aligned and bolted in or, it sounds like, some re rigging. . .

LAriverratt

you are the exception...not just in the boating world. wish you were closer to me you'd get my boats ever fall and anytime I couldn't/didn't have time during the year!

ealesh33

iTrader: (1)

I would say $1350-$1500 for labor to do what you are looking to do based on the labor rate I pay. My guy charges me $75/hr and at the $1350-$1500 range is 18-20 hrs of labor. But there are alot of variables, and I can say that i am currently having a motor put in my boat and plan to have all maintenance done while everything is out. New boots, new shift cable, and new gimble bearing. I wouldn't skimp too much and just bite the bullet now while its all going to be out. I got a new coupler, bilge pump, and had the bilge re painted as well cause you never know when you will have the opportunity to do this again with everything out. Not to mention I want my guy to rig nicely, so it looks good in there. Not saying to have an open check book, but really think about what you want to have done or may want done in the near future, and dont just focus on getting the cheapest price from who is doing it.

Crossett

Wow, I've needed a way to pull my engine for a little while now. You posted this then a couple days later a 20% off coupon for harbor freight showed up in my email. Now there's a gantry crane in my yard. Talk about the stars aligning.