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Old 01-17-2014, 01:17 AM
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Default Fresh Water Flush?

I have an old mistress hull and I am wondering how to flush it out with fresh water when I use it in salt but cannot take it out of the water on trailer.....
so how to flush fresh thru while still in water...
it is running a pair of early 2000 merc 502's..... I believe there are two methods to do so?? sea strainers?
sorry newbie question but never had an inboard boat before!!!
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Old 01-17-2014, 01:29 AM
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Basically, you need to install a T fitting into the intake water hose before the seapump. You can then run hoses from the T's to fresh water flush fittings.
If you have sea strainers, you can install the fittings right at the strainers.

BTW, you still don't have an inboard boat. LOL!!! Its considered an inboard/outboard or sterndrive boat.
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Old 01-17-2014, 06:48 AM
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If you want to flush while the boat is in the water, you need to be able to cut off the water supply from the drives or you will suck the sea water in with the fresh water. If you have sea strainers, you want to install a ball valve in the line that goes between the drive and the inlet port on the strainer and then put the tee for the flush inlet in the line that goes between the outport port on the strainer and sea water pump. In this setup, you close the ball valve and turn the fresh water on and run the motor. Fresh water will go right to the pump and the sea water will be blocked. Also, with the flush tee on the output side of the strainer, you can back-flush the strainer should it become clogged.

If you don't have strainers than the setup is similar, just put the tee and the ball valve on the water line between drive and sea water pump, just put ball valve between the tee and the drive.

If you don't have strainers now and are going to install them, you can get strainers that have a flush inlet on them already which makes the installation a bit easier as you won't need to install the tee. Still need the ball valve though.

Last edited by HyFive578; 01-17-2014 at 06:51 AM.
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Old 01-17-2014, 01:00 PM
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You can fashion one with pvc ball valve after the intake and t-fitting.

Perko makes a Flush Pro that does the same thing in a more compact, production package.
http://www.perko.com/catalog/categor...re/product/62/
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Old 01-17-2014, 01:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ChargeIt
You can fashion one with pvc ball valve after the intake and t-fitting.

Perko makes a Flush Pro that does the same thing in a more compact, production package.
http://www.perko.com/catalog/categor...re/product/62/
I know someone that used the Perko. The check valve would stick and the plastic housing cracked. Personally, I would not use anything plastic below the water line.. use marine grade brass or stainless steel only.
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Old 01-17-2014, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by HyFive578
If you want to flush while the boat is in the water, you need to be able to cut off the water supply from the drives or you will suck the sea water in with the fresh water. If you have sea strainers, you want to install a ball valve in the line that goes between the drive and the inlet port on the strainer and then put the tee for the flush inlet in the line that goes between the outport port on the strainer and sea water pump. In this setup, you close the ball valve and turn the fresh water on and run the motor. Fresh water will go right to the pump and the sea water will be blocked. Also, with the flush tee on the output side of the strainer, you can back-flush the strainer should it become clogged.

If you don't have strainers than the setup is similar, just put the tee and the ball valve on the water line between drive and sea water pump, just put ball valve between the tee and the drive.

If you don't have strainers now and are going to install them, you can get strainers that have a flush inlet on them already which makes the installation a bit easier as you won't need to install the tee. Still need the ball valve though.

As HyFive says. I have been using this system on my Sport Fisher for years (twin 306hp Volvos). This also allows you to put Salt Away or any other product through your calling system. By removing the salt from the water in your cooling system you remove the risk of electrolysis from your cooling system components. These will also remain cleaner and require way less maintenance. Well worth doing..........
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Old 01-19-2014, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by HyFive578
I know someone that used the Perko. The check valve would stick and the plastic housing cracked. Personally, I would not use anything plastic below the water line.. use marine grade brass or stainless steel only.
Mine came with the old style. It cracked at a 90 degree joint.

They have since been redesigned with a beefier, solid taper from valve to hose sleeve.
I replaced with the new style.
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