Pro charger
#11
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Check out this thread: http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...ger-users.html
At post #25 Artic Friends aka "Smitty" posted; through the years I read his post regarding engines and Prochargers, he has been there and done that. I would think he can a valuable resource for anyone with Procharger questions. Send him a PM and see if he can give you solid advice and guidance.
Second thread about fuel system questions with more advice:
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...questions.html
This may help you gather information to help you sort out your questions, and make contacts who can properly answer your technical questions. Good luck.
Stephen
At post #25 Artic Friends aka "Smitty" posted; through the years I read his post regarding engines and Prochargers, he has been there and done that. I would think he can a valuable resource for anyone with Procharger questions. Send him a PM and see if he can give you solid advice and guidance.
Second thread about fuel system questions with more advice:
http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/g...questions.html
This may help you gather information to help you sort out your questions, and make contacts who can properly answer your technical questions. Good luck.
Stephen
Last edited by Smarty; 01-28-2014 at 04:13 PM.
#12
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Location: Seatle WA
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agreed smitty is THE man when it comes to getting the max out of a 502mpi. I think he is north of 1000hp! He has helped me with my new build. Not sure how familiar he would be with a simple engineered bolt on kit to get 100 to 200 hp without serious modifications. I am not sure of procharger has a complete bolt on kit, but i have experience with the vortech kit. it worked awesome. Maybe whipple has an engineered complete bolt on kit. I do not know
Larry
Larry
#13
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Fuel system-On low boost apps Procharger likes to claim you can simply get by with stock injectors, fuel lines, etc and a boost referencing rising rate regulator with stock ecu. You can actually make quite a lot of hp on stock injectors once you turn the fuel press up, the problem is a rising rate regulator just blindly increases the output of the injectors when you go into boost. They work irratically and your boat will end up rich somewhere with the transom black and the regulators they provide never work the same twice. Having the ecu programmed for your boat is the best idea.
A good point was also brought up, IF your motor is original to your boat and is 13-19 years old it might not be such a great idea to start boosting it now without going thru and rebuilding/inspecting and upgrading everything.
In the end, keep in mind that even if you find a good used kit for $2500 , that will quickly double and triple if ypou ugrade anything else or break something
#14
You will need to add fuel for the 100HP, plus additional fuel for HP the blower is taking to make the 100. Anything that acts like a cork in the system will rob HP in the form of back pressure
on the blower making it harder to turn.
on the blower making it harder to turn.
Last edited by GPM; 01-29-2014 at 02:04 PM.
#15
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You will need:
-fuel pump (aeromotive A1000) and a boost referenced regulator.
-new fuel feed line/lines
-fuel return line to the fuel tank (must drill/tap a hole in the tank or sending unit if there isn't a return there already)
-ECM will need to be tuned without a doubt...the instructions in the kit will say that it doesn't but they're clearly crackheads.
-will probably need to change props as well
You could do a compression test and a cylinder leak down test to get an idea of the condition of the engine, but freshening the motor or being ready to at the least will be a good idea.
Keeping these things in mind will get you in the direction you're looking to go.
-fuel pump (aeromotive A1000) and a boost referenced regulator.
-new fuel feed line/lines
-fuel return line to the fuel tank (must drill/tap a hole in the tank or sending unit if there isn't a return there already)
-ECM will need to be tuned without a doubt...the instructions in the kit will say that it doesn't but they're clearly crackheads.
-will probably need to change props as well
You could do a compression test and a cylinder leak down test to get an idea of the condition of the engine, but freshening the motor or being ready to at the least will be a good idea.
Keeping these things in mind will get you in the direction you're looking to go.
#16
You will need:
-fuel pump (aeromotive A1000) and a boost referenced regulator.
-new fuel feed line/lines
-fuel return line to the fuel tank (must drill/tap a hole in the tank or sending unit if there isn't a return there already)
-ECM will need to be tuned without a doubt...the instructions in the kit will say that it doesn't but they're clearly crackheads.
-will probably need to change props as well
You could do a compression test and a cylinder leak down test to get an idea of the condition of the engine, but freshening the motor or being ready to at the least will be a good idea.
Keeping these things in mind will get you in the direction you're looking to go.
-fuel pump (aeromotive A1000) and a boost referenced regulator.
-new fuel feed line/lines
-fuel return line to the fuel tank (must drill/tap a hole in the tank or sending unit if there isn't a return there already)
-ECM will need to be tuned without a doubt...the instructions in the kit will say that it doesn't but they're clearly crackheads.
-will probably need to change props as well
You could do a compression test and a cylinder leak down test to get an idea of the condition of the engine, but freshening the motor or being ready to at the least will be a good idea.
Keeping these things in mind will get you in the direction you're looking to go.
#18
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the vortech kit comes with all of the components ENGINEERED to work together to work with a stock late model 502. comes with a modifed ecu.
No fuel return required
No aeromotive fuel pump
No new fuel lines requires
You need a base motor in good condition and you may need to reprop tp keep it in the rpm range.
You will need a sea strainer, and a dump for the intercooler water exit
That's it, if you buy the kit
No fuel return required
No aeromotive fuel pump
No new fuel lines requires
You need a base motor in good condition and you may need to reprop tp keep it in the rpm range.
You will need a sea strainer, and a dump for the intercooler water exit
That's it, if you buy the kit
#19
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buy an m1 procharger and then the best way is the areomotive pump, larger fuel lines, tank return etc.
eddie youngblood, or mark at precision marine can probably reprogram your ecu for the set up. you will also need a 2 bar map sensor. the procharger will need to come with all the brackets, intercooler, pipes etc. you will still need a sea strainer and water dump.
eddie youngblood, or mark at precision marine can probably reprogram your ecu for the set up. you will also need a 2 bar map sensor. the procharger will need to come with all the brackets, intercooler, pipes etc. you will still need a sea strainer and water dump.
#20
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the vortech kit comes with all of the components ENGINEERED to work together to work with a stock late model 502. comes with a modifed ecu.
No fuel return required
No aeromotive fuel pump
No new fuel lines requires
You need a base motor in good condition and you may need to reprop tp keep it in the rpm range.
You will need a sea strainer, and a dump for the intercooler water exit
That's it, if you buy the kit
No fuel return required
No aeromotive fuel pump
No new fuel lines requires
You need a base motor in good condition and you may need to reprop tp keep it in the rpm range.
You will need a sea strainer, and a dump for the intercooler water exit
That's it, if you buy the kit