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Old 01-29-2014, 03:53 PM
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I just copied and pasted my own response from a previous thread on Prochargers.

IMO, there are several things that should be done if you want it to live a long life and run to its potential.
First, you should change the head gaskets to Cometics. If you are going to run over about 3 psi, then the exhaust valves should be changed to something like Manley's Inconel valves. You will also need to upgrade the fuel system. Take the Procharger regulator and throw it in the garbage. Use a standard 1:1 boost referenced regulator, like an Aeromotive. I would replace not only the fuel filter head to a larger one, but also the fuel lines and the pickup in the tank if it isn't large enough.(most are not large enough in production type boats) The fuel return should go back to the fuel tank. If the engine has over 200-250 hours, you should freshen up the heads. You will need to turn it a little harder than the stock 5050 rpm to take full advantage of the power. At 5 psi of boost, it will pull to about 5300 rpm.

Depending on the year of the 502 mags, there were 3 different versions of the fuel rails. The pre 99 versions have a few issues. The supply hole to the #7 injector needs to be opened up in a mill. Also, the rail should be fed fuel from both ends so that one end isn't run dry. There are quite a few other mods that needs to be done to the rail in order to make it really work correctly. The 99 and up rail needs less mods. It still should be fed from both ends, but it is already threaded for 1/4" NPT, so it's much easier to do.

With 5 psi boost, you should be in the 625 hp area. The stock injectors are good to about 650 hp without killing them by running them to hard. You can make more than 650, but it takes its toll on the injectors. If you have a pre 99 fuel rail, then you will have the Keihin injectors. There are no drop in replacements that are larger than the stockers. You can install larger injectors but it requires drilling out both the intake and the rails. If you have a 99 and up, they use the shorty injectors, so they can be replaced with larger ones if you want to make more power.

The other thing that must be addressed in the ecm. Obviously, it will need to be retuned. The best bet is to put it on the dyno and tune it.

We have done a TON of these. I actually have a few in the shop now that we are doing. If you have any questions or need any help, don't hesitate to give me a call anytime.
Eddie
615-216-7449 shop
504-416-3607 cell
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Old 01-29-2014, 04:29 PM
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eddie, should i make a funny comment about fuel tank pickups?
when do you think you can get around to them? before spring i hope!
larry
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Old 01-29-2014, 10:48 PM
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I'll have them for you by next week. My welder going down has really made it tough. It couldn't have happened at a worse time. I have a bunch of stuff to fabricate. I'll give you a shout when they are done.
Thanks,
Eddie
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Old 01-30-2014, 02:54 AM
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i am re considering buying the prochrager with all these mods all you told me to do .............. what can i do to upgrade it a bit just not to leave it bone stock this motor?
from what i heared the problem with the 502mpi is the air intake and inlet runner . has anyone did somthing to this ? what about a custom plenium ?
[IMG]intakedouble.jpg[/IMG]
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Old 01-31-2014, 12:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Young Performance
I just copied and pasted my own response from a previous thread on Prochargers.

IMO, there are several things that should be done if you want it to live a long life and run to its potential.
First, you should change the head gaskets to Cometics. If you are going to run over about 3 psi, then the exhaust valves should be changed to something like Manley's Inconel valves. You will also need to upgrade the fuel system. Take the Procharger regulator and throw it in the garbage. Use a standard 1:1 boost referenced regulator, like an Aeromotive. I would replace not only the fuel filter head to a larger one, but also the fuel lines and the pickup in the tank if it isn't large enough.(most are not large enough in production type boats) The fuel return should go back to the fuel tank. If the engine has over 200-250 hours, you should freshen up the heads. You will need to turn it a little harder than the stock 5050 rpm to take full advantage of the power. At 5 psi of boost, it will pull to about 5300 rpm.

Depending on the year of the 502 mags, there were 3 different versions of the fuel rails. The pre 99 versions have a few issues. The supply hole to the #7 injector needs to be opened up in a mill. Also, the rail should be fed fuel from both ends so that one end isn't run dry. There are quite a few other mods that needs to be done to the rail in order to make it really work correctly. The 99 and up rail needs less mods. It still should be fed from both ends, but it is already threaded for 1/4" NPT, so it's much easier to do.

With 5 psi boost, you should be in the 625 hp area. The stock injectors are good to about 650 hp without killing them by running them to hard. You can make more than 650, but it takes its toll on the injectors. If you have a pre 99 fuel rail, then you will have the Keihin injectors. There are no drop in replacements that are larger than the stockers. You can install larger injectors but it requires drilling out both the intake and the rails. If you have a 99 and up, they use the shorty injectors, so they can be replaced with larger ones if you want to make more power.

The other thing that must be addressed in the ecm. Obviously, it will need to be retuned. The best bet is to put it on the dyno and tune it.

We have done a TON of these. I actually have a few in the shop now that we are doing. If you have any questions or need any help, don't hesitate to give me a call anytime.
Eddie
615-216-7449 shop
504-416-3607 cell

Eddie, I found a kit at pier57.com it has everything you said less the fuel rail ! My 502 is pre 99 . If I buy this kit can you make me the fuel rail as you said in the above ?
Let me know please
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Old 01-31-2014, 09:02 AM
  #26  
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IMO upgrading an engine any less then the amount of HP increase that a full build gives you or a procharger gives you will be a waste of time. Lots of good advice on hear don't let it scare you away just make sure you are prepared.

I love my prochargers BTW!

Just remember to plan for more expensive maintence. Drive failures and upgrades. And most importantly the " speed itch" that won't stop,........

If your budget does not feel comfortable its no big deal. Just enjoy stock powerboats more often on the water then being broke down at the dock with a ";faster" powerboat.
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Old 01-31-2014, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Bulitz
i am re considering buying the prochrager with all these mods all you told me to do .............. what can i do to upgrade it a bit just not to leave it bone stock this motor?
from what i heared the problem with the 502mpi is the air intake and inlet runner . has anyone did somthing to this ? what about a custom plenium ?
[IMG]intakedouble.jpg[/IMG]
Don't let what I posted scare you away. You can have a very reliable piece if done correctly. If you want to keep it NA, you will have to spend quite a bit to make any substantial gains. You will spend as much or more to make the power that the Procharger will make. Which ever way you go, just be sure to work with someone reputable that has done it before and knows how to do it correctly the first time, or you will be sorry that you ever laid a finger on it.
Eddie
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Old 01-31-2014, 10:01 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Bulitz
Eddie, I found a kit at pier57.com it has everything you said less the fuel rail ! My 502 is pre 99 . If I buy this kit can you make me the fuel rail as you said in the above ?
Let me know please
The Procharger kit doesn't come with a fuel rail. You use your existing rail. I would be more than happy to do the rail for you. Just give me a shout and we can take care of it.
Eddie
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Old 01-31-2014, 01:15 PM
  #29  
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I went through 3 engines on ecm's not programmed on the dyno. Do it on the dyno or the very least in the boat. If not you will hole a piston or burn a valve, guaranteed!
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Old 01-31-2014, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by kennyo
I went through 3 engines on ecm's not programmed on the dyno. Do it on the dyno or the very least in the boat. If not you will hole a piston or burn a valve, guaranteed!
I forgot all about the head gaskets....
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