BUP

iTrader: (9)

I have always heard a lower unit that had only a primer base coat in which was sanded not so smooth in the same direction of the water flow was the fastest. Also I always heard the same for the hull bottom - a gel kote hull bottom sanded in the same direction as the water flow was the fastest. Experiment with the different grits for best results.

Then you have Wilson Custom Marine with their new super slippery coating applied to their lower units after blueprinting. So I wonder which is better now. Also what is that product coating that is out that nothing sticks to it plus after applied water can not absorb it either, it has been posted up here a few times in the past. Wonder who is using that coating.

Next, I said this in the past as far as dimples on a hull bottom would 'nt that be the same just in reverse as a hull bottom covered in blisters ? Anyone tested a boat that had hull blisters ?

dereknkathy

maybe leave the barnacles on?

low_psi

Nope. I bought my Velocity and it had calcium build up from some sort of underwater growth (possibly barnacles). Anyway, the boat just wouldn't free up. As soon as I acid washed all that crap off the boat picked up over 7 MPH and felt like a completely different boat.

SB

iTrader: (1)

No reason to. I'd rather polish my helmet. LOL.

SB

iTrader: (1)

Or spray with truck bedliner. Hah !

I actually saw a boat with truck bedliner used as a bottom paint...believe it or not. Unfortunately the guy bought it that way so there was no info for me to say how it effected it.

Funniest thing seeing that,,,BTW.

bbladesprops

Golf ball theory is the same theory we just do it in a smaller scale.

We blueprint cases as well. We have been doing them for years but haven't marketed that process very well. There was never a demand for the process until the last few years. I have templates for skegs we developed at Mercury Racing 15 years ago. We have based our recipe off of those templates. We satin finish the cases too. Very similar to the props.

Brett