Hey BUP, Synthetic Oil??
06-02-2014, 05:31 AM
#1
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Hey BUP, Synthetic Oil??
Didn't want to hijack another thread….
OK, so my curiosity is piqued...
OK, so my curiosity is piqued...
06-02-2014, 07:58 AM
#4
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terms.
Synthetic oils are made up of synthetic base stocks and additives. But the additives will
come from the additive suppliers dissolved in a refined mineral oil, That
is the same for all synthetic oils.
Since motor oils contain 12-15% of additives and the refined mineral oil could
be 25-50% of the additive volume - this would mean anywhere from 3-6% mineral
oil is part of a "synthetic oil".
What the marketer's really are talking about is the base oils - but you don't buy base
oil - you buy fully formulated finished oil.
So. it's a mute point anyways because it's the additives that determine the
performance of an oil - a poorly formulated 100% synthetic oil has no guarantee
of increased finished product performance over a well formulated mineral oil.
You're chasing what the product is made from rather than what the fully finished
product does. Kind of like choosing beer, wine or liquor based solely on the
amount of alcohol content....
06-02-2014, 09:12 AM
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06-02-2014, 11:30 AM
#6
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I agree 100% there in not a 100% all synthetic oil - there was one years ago that claimed to be and I forgot the name of it. It was from a guy named Marco. They claimed it could have been a lifetime oil. If I recall it I will post it.
Anyways most of - off your shelf oils that say synthetic / marketed as synthetic are a group III based oil. In the real world that's not a true synthetic oil, What it really is what they called years ago a "HYDO CRACK BASES OIL" (spelling).
Most oils that are priced 5 bucks and under RETAIL are not a group IV and especially not a group V based ester oil. The esters are not cheap from the additive companies for the oil formulators to buy. A true based synthetic oil (still not 100%) is group IV & V based oil. Group IV is PAO and group V is Esters based. Some oils are formulated with both groups. PAO's are cheaper in price.
Really a good oil is a balance oil no matter what brand.. You do not want a high additive of one to over power say an anti wear additive.. Actually an oil that can stay in its grade and how well it holds against oxidation & heat is a good oil. Oxidation is a killer for oil. Oxidation actually thickens oil over time as I said an oil that can combat that 100% is doing well.
Anyways a friend of mine does oil analysis for a living. He use to be on Bob is the oil guy site many years ago. The site is not even close to what it use to be when it was started from Bob in Florida who use to be a Scheaffer oil dealer. Bob was tied in with dirt track racers and sold a lot of his brand oil to them. That's how that site started. Bob even emailed everyone at that time about what was important topics to start the site up. We are talking years ago.
Anyways most of - off your shelf oils that say synthetic / marketed as synthetic are a group III based oil. In the real world that's not a true synthetic oil, What it really is what they called years ago a "HYDO CRACK BASES OIL" (spelling).
Most oils that are priced 5 bucks and under RETAIL are not a group IV and especially not a group V based ester oil. The esters are not cheap from the additive companies for the oil formulators to buy. A true based synthetic oil (still not 100%) is group IV & V based oil. Group IV is PAO and group V is Esters based. Some oils are formulated with both groups. PAO's are cheaper in price.
Really a good oil is a balance oil no matter what brand.. You do not want a high additive of one to over power say an anti wear additive.. Actually an oil that can stay in its grade and how well it holds against oxidation & heat is a good oil. Oxidation is a killer for oil. Oxidation actually thickens oil over time as I said an oil that can combat that 100% is doing well.
Anyways a friend of mine does oil analysis for a living. He use to be on Bob is the oil guy site many years ago. The site is not even close to what it use to be when it was started from Bob in Florida who use to be a Scheaffer oil dealer. Bob was tied in with dirt track racers and sold a lot of his brand oil to them. That's how that site started. Bob even emailed everyone at that time about what was important topics to start the site up. We are talking years ago.
Last edited by BUP; 06-02-2014 at 12:07 PM.
06-02-2014, 12:22 PM
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Talking of synthetic oil, here is a new scam.
I bought 4 cases of mobil 1 v-twin, three were boxed cases and the for the fourth they pulled bottles off the shelf. When I went to use them, I found two of the bottles had been refilled with used oil and returned to the autozone.
The cashier ran an inventory check and saw that some had been returned (cash sale)
Waiting on a possible refund.
Be sure and examine any bottle of ten dollar oil to see if the seal has been cracked.
I bought 4 cases of mobil 1 v-twin, three were boxed cases and the for the fourth they pulled bottles off the shelf. When I went to use them, I found two of the bottles had been refilled with used oil and returned to the autozone.
The cashier ran an inventory check and saw that some had been returned (cash sale)
Waiting on a possible refund.
Be sure and examine any bottle of ten dollar oil to see if the seal has been cracked.
06-02-2014, 12:55 PM
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Had the same thing happen to me at Walmart - a 5qt jug of Gold Cap 5w30, full of waste oil. I emailed them through their website figuring they would blow me off as somebody trying to scam them for a free $26 bottle of Gold Cap. But no, the store manager personally called me and asked my to stop by whenever I had a chance! They gave me a replacement jug.
06-09-2014, 05:49 PM
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Looking for advice on using 20W50 verse 15W50. I have a rebuilt 454 never been turned. The shop mentioned using 15W50. However, I have 24 quarts of 20W50 sitting in my garage. Any issue using the heavier weight?
