Formula 330 SS re-power
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Formula 330 SS re-power
Hi All ,
New to the forum but have read many discussions here.
I am about to "invest" in a Formula 330 SS , researched quite a few brands and boats and the choice is final.
The issue now is that I would like to have the boat rigged and ready with the least amount of issues in SALT water.
I am going to have to slip it in Salt water year around , but I do have the possibility to lift the boat out of the slip once every month or 2 for cleaning barnacles and inspect bottom paint.
In the range of boats available there are the lower cost 1999 - 2002 boats which could be a candidate for a re-power with either Seacore or Ocean X set up.
In my opinion this would give me extra ammo against the corrosion in the salt hot water but at a cost (which I am willing to take if it really does give a lot of extra protection)
Alternatively , I could go towards more recent boats in the 2006-2008 range and just add (or make sure it has) closed cooling , then add the best possible outdrives I can get to fight the corrosion.
Anyone out there that can give me some guidance on this ?
Boat will fdefinitely have to be the 330 SS (right spec after many considerations , otherwise would have gone outboard)
Thanks !
Jack
New to the forum but have read many discussions here.
I am about to "invest" in a Formula 330 SS , researched quite a few brands and boats and the choice is final.
The issue now is that I would like to have the boat rigged and ready with the least amount of issues in SALT water.
I am going to have to slip it in Salt water year around , but I do have the possibility to lift the boat out of the slip once every month or 2 for cleaning barnacles and inspect bottom paint.
In the range of boats available there are the lower cost 1999 - 2002 boats which could be a candidate for a re-power with either Seacore or Ocean X set up.
In my opinion this would give me extra ammo against the corrosion in the salt hot water but at a cost (which I am willing to take if it really does give a lot of extra protection)
Alternatively , I could go towards more recent boats in the 2006-2008 range and just add (or make sure it has) closed cooling , then add the best possible outdrives I can get to fight the corrosion.
Anyone out there that can give me some guidance on this ?
Boat will fdefinitely have to be the 330 SS (right spec after many considerations , otherwise would have gone outboard)
Thanks !
Jack
#2
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best investment IMO would be a later model closed cooling bravo3 or Volvo duoprop drives. I don't believe an aftermarket repower would offer the same resale down the road in this size. gen set and factory air also.
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No chance of lift (not allowed) , hence I am looking for the best possible set-up to prevent corrosion on drive system.
The bottom paint can be inspected regularly and i do have the option to have boat lifted by crane once a month to service barnacles and bottom paint , if necessary , just worried that stuff happens within a month....I am in very salt and hot water.
I do have an option to move to a (much) more expensive mooring area where FLOATING lifts are allowed , this would then lead to having to purchase an air berth or sun stream lift at 25K deer minimum , would that still be a better option or would the new engine drive technology with Seacore / Ocean X drives be sufficient to keep them in salt , hot water year around (but again having option to lift once every 1-2 months.
Thanks for input.
The bottom paint can be inspected regularly and i do have the option to have boat lifted by crane once a month to service barnacles and bottom paint , if necessary , just worried that stuff happens within a month....I am in very salt and hot water.
I do have an option to move to a (much) more expensive mooring area where FLOATING lifts are allowed , this would then lead to having to purchase an air berth or sun stream lift at 25K deer minimum , would that still be a better option or would the new engine drive technology with Seacore / Ocean X drives be sufficient to keep them in salt , hot water year around (but again having option to lift once every 1-2 months.
Thanks for input.
#6
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Be sure and have your berth checked for stray currents regularly. A stray current can and will destroy your investment in short order.[ATTACH=CONFIG]540792[/ATTACH]
#7
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My 06 Formula 400ss has been siting in the salt for years with zero problems
couple of key things to do
when you have it bottom painted make sure that they sand blast the drives first. if you just bottom paint the drives it won't last
as wobble said check for current. a electric boat in the slip next to you will cause issues
even with closed cooling flush the headers regularly
enjoy
couple of key things to do
when you have it bottom painted make sure that they sand blast the drives first. if you just bottom paint the drives it won't last
as wobble said check for current. a electric boat in the slip next to you will cause issues
even with closed cooling flush the headers regularly
enjoy
#8
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Buy a later model with closed cooling, original installation. I've had many boats stuck in salt water slips and never had any issues but maintenance is the key. Mercs are pretty good but anodes disappear very quickly. They are cheap so check them frequently. If engines are flushed regularly, you shouldn't have any major issues.
My experience with Volvo's tells me the maintenance is more frequent and more expensive.
RR
My experience with Volvo's tells me the maintenance is more frequent and more expensive.
RR