BBCLiberator

iTrader: (2)

Ok -- so I was running fairly hard in some rough stuff today on Lake Erie and heard some clunking that I've never heard before. The engine mount attachment to the stringer was loose and allowed the engine to move and beat the hell out of the stringer, and actually crack it. I know the right thing to do here is pull the motor and replace the stringer, but I'm baffled, the stringer has no rot (even though this isn't a great picture). I drilled a few test holes and its fine. What the heck should I do here, I'd like to make it through the summer and repair over the winter since I'm in Michigan. Steel plate on either side of the stringer that extends out a few inches and thru bolt for extra support? This is uncharted territory for me and I don't want to completely hack this up.

I'm taking the engine out this weekend, but wonder if you had any ideas, other mounts etc. that I could use...I don't know I may be grasping for straws at this point...

f_inscreenname

There is almost no stringer there. Just through bolts and washers its a wonder the motor didn't flip out the back of the boat. There should be at least aluminum plates on the outside. I would have made it so it was bigger (longer) on both sides of the mount on that tiny of a stringer. Maybe 5 or 6 bolts long.

Black Baja

iTrader: (2)

You need taller and thicker stringers

turbofox54

I'd fab up a new engine mount that sat over the stringer in a u shape that could be through bolted. And make it so it is at least 6 inches long so it captures more surface area of the stringer. That is after replacing the damaged stringer.

jeff32

The nuts on all bolts seems to be loose from the tightest position they should be in, so if you did not unscrew the nuts, my guess is the stringer is shot ans schrank thru time... Should replace the whole thing properly, maybe that was a lucky warning, could have been worst!

BBCLiberator

iTrader: (2)

Couple things here
a) I loosened the nuts when inspecting to get a better look
b) I agree the thickness of the current stringers is inadequate and I should have done something about this earlier, just never crossed my mind.
c) Engine will be out this weekend and I talked to a place that can do this work for me, guess I'll have these done properly even if it takes some time.

TxHawk

iTrader: (2)

Definitely add the longest backing plate you can. Does the inside of the angle have a gusset? You might even look at fabbing an engine plate if you like rough water. My narrow 27 has similar sized stringers with side supports. I was determined to get an offshore plate between them for this reason. I only had 29.5" between and it looks like you may have less. I modified a Mercury steel plate. Hope I'm not working on glass next winter...

BBCLiberator

iTrader: (2)

Oh, and thanks for telling me what I already knew...sometime your just need to hear it. Just really bad timing, but that is how boating goes. Unfortunately I've been around long enough to have been here before.

I would definitely suck to see my sunpad fly open and the engine jump into the lake....

dereknkathy

Getting thru summer? Most any patch will work for short term. Quick but sturdy, a cedar 2x4 as long as you can fit down both sides of that stringer. Thru bolt 3 or 4 in front and behind the mount plate. Now, as everybody said, that stringer is too small. I betcha every structural piece in that boat is too small. Stop hammering this hull. Drive it like the lake boat it is. (Great lakes don't count as lakes.)
Also, that motor didnt twist. If the left front lifted, so did the right front or else transom is shot and the whole transom shield is flexing.

BBCLiberator

iTrader: (2)

The right front did move, just not as much, and yes, there is certainly flexing happening but the transom is "good". I think I had this same conversation with my dad last night, and it's 100% correct...