Full or empty fuel tank this winter?
09-22-2016, 09:30 PM
#32
VIP Member
http://www.boatus.com/seaworthy/SeaApr10Ethanol.pdf
First line, first answer of this article. I'm just going off the lies I've been fed by the marine industrial complex. Clearly it's a conspiracy to sell fuel additives and extraction devices!!!!
First line, first answer of this article. I'm just going off the lies I've been fed by the marine industrial complex. Clearly it's a conspiracy to sell fuel additives and extraction devices!!!!
I have an electronic octane test machine. I have found that after testing more than 60 separate tests that gasoline sold at the pump has 1 - 1.5 more octane than is the Minimum rating suggested on the pump. Gasoline tested from 7-11 last week, I purchased 89 octane was actually 90.5 octane when tested. Out of 60 test including Exxon, Shell, Sunoco, Mom & Pops little store, Marina etc... I have never had less that 1 octane above what is written on the pump, and if your read the pump carefully it states that that is the "minimum" octane rating. I went to the auto parts store and purchased a bottle of everything they had on the shelf to increase octane. I can tell you it takes a lot of "booster" to increase a gallon 1 point and ton of "booster" to increase the octane one number. I have gasoline being tested that is more than 1 1/2 years old from the purchase date, left purposely in sealed and unsealed containers. Each test has lost no octane over the period. Understand that the fuel may have lost volatiles that make it hard to start, smell bad etc...but it has not lost octane. These fuels also contain 10% ethanol.
I will dig up the manufactuer of the machine, I believe the cost was $ 12,000.00 or so.
Rumor mill was very strong leading me to believe that Ethanol made gas go bad and the result was reduced Octane. I had several engine failures, so rather than buy more engines I tested fuel.
The only guys that really care about Octane are the aircraft and boat owners, a car on the track with 14:1 is already buy fuel, and he is only buring 20 gallons so cost and availibility is not an issue. FAA has very few rules regarding the age of gasoline, of course purge and check for water before climbing in.
I was so sure someone was trying to screw me selling me "bad" gas that I purchased this machine. Fact is that I have yet to find any gas that is less than advertized Octane. I have gone to some gas stations where a second person has to watch your back while fueling, and still the fuel is as advertized.
I have looked for and found old lawn mowers, gas smells foul, but the octane is 87 +, of course I do not know what or when the fuel was put in the tank, nor to I believe that any equipment would run with this old gas, but the octane is ok.
To get a good pump test I pre-purge the fuel line, pump 4 gallons through the pump into the car, then fill a 1 gallon container for testing to help insure I'm getting the gas paid for and not fuel left in the line from the previous use.
Lessons learned -
Rumor mill was very strong leading me to believe that Ethanol made gas go bad and the result was reduced Octane. I had several engine failures, so rather than buy more engines I tested fuel.
The only guys that really care about Octane are the aircraft and boat owners, a car on the track with 14:1 is already buy fuel, and he is only buring 20 gallons so cost and availibility is not an issue. FAA has very few rules regarding the age of gasoline, of course purge and check for water before climbing in.
I was so sure someone was trying to screw me selling me "bad" gas that I purchased this machine. Fact is that I have yet to find any gas that is less than advertized Octane. I have gone to some gas stations where a second person has to watch your back while fueling, and still the fuel is as advertized.
I have looked for and found old lawn mowers, gas smells foul, but the octane is 87 +, of course I do not know what or when the fuel was put in the tank, nor to I believe that any equipment would run with this old gas, but the octane is ok.
To get a good pump test I pre-purge the fuel line, pump 4 gallons through the pump into the car, then fill a 1 gallon container for testing to help insure I'm getting the gas paid for and not fuel left in the line from the previous use.
Lessons learned -
__________________
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Last edited by glassdave; 09-22-2016 at 09:32 PM.
09-22-2016, 09:52 PM
#33
http://www.boatus.com/seaworthy/SeaApr10Ethanol.pdf
First line, first answer of this article. I'm just going off the lies I've been fed by the marine industrial complex. Clearly it's a conspiracy to sell fuel additives and extraction devices!!!!
First line, first answer of this article. I'm just going off the lies I've been fed by the marine industrial complex. Clearly it's a conspiracy to sell fuel additives and extraction devices!!!!
__________________
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
Throttles- Cleveland Construction 377 Talon
08 OPA Class 1 National Champion
08 Class 1 Geico Triple Crown Champion
08 OPA High Points Champion
10 OPA Class 1 National Champion ( happy now Ed! )
09-22-2016, 11:43 PM
#34
Registered
I drain the fuel tank with an elec pump and dump the fuel filters. Mix up 10 gals of AV gas (110LL), 1 quart of 2-stroke oil and an appropriate amount of marine Stabil, pour it in the tank and idle the engs until they start smoking.
09-23-2016, 02:50 AM
#36
Banned
iTrader: (9)
2004 Mercruiser in a Sea Ray that sat outside and has not ran for 5 years again sat out side completely for 5 years untouched. I winterized back then 5 years ago, Half tank of fuel of E 10 left in for 5 years with the soup mix and the soup mix in the gas tank for 5 years, winterized - Nov 2011- Fuel side just Drained gas tank completely, new fuel rubber line from tank to inlet side of engine, all new filters, fresh gas, primed complete fuel side and carb, engine started on the first crank, Runs great on the water hose for 20 mins straight. Will see how it runs on the water ( loaded ) this weekend. Did not even touch the carb yet.
IMO 20 to 50 % full of gas with soup mix - in the gas tank up to 6 month old gas and you should be decent to go for non performance engines. But in my stuff I drain that 20 to 50 % gas out and start out with fresh fuel for the season. It a piece of mind.
If you leave the tank empty in which is never 100 percent completely empty because the pick up tube is 3/8 inch from the bottom of the tank and some even a tad more away - I have seen some a inch away. With that said, gas evaporates and forms deposits / varnish in the bottom of the tank over time. So when you put fresh gas in when ever down the road - the washing machine effect in the gas tank while driving or towing the boat breaks up those formed deposits in which lift off - then run thru your fuel system. This is why you leave a min of 20 percent gas still in the tank and do NOT allow a water source to enter. GAS CAP seal and or its O ring is extremely important along with fuel vent.
Actually more deposits form from NON ethanol gas as its evaporates compared to E 10 gas. Why - because E 10 the ethanol is a cleaner and or acts as solvent - just like rubbing alcohol. ------ If you ever had a very varnished up gas tank one of the cheapest and easiest ways to clean it, is fill it up with straight ethanol - let it sit for about 4 days plus tow the boat around a couple of times - then drain the tank completely. It will clean the hell out that gas tank. Try it as I have for the past 10 years. Also ethanol has a very high octane rating. FYI something like 112 or 118 octane.
For Non ethanol fuel put in a clear jar with holes in the lid for a year or 2, it will shock you of the crust that forms. Ask me how I know. E 10 gas did not form any layer crusts like the Non ethanol. I am not pro or con for either fuel. But the key is how you treat fuels when they sit for periods of time. That's the key along with fuel samples especially at the beginning, middle and end of the boating year. Also ALL new fuel filters min. once per year..
IMO 20 to 50 % full of gas with soup mix - in the gas tank up to 6 month old gas and you should be decent to go for non performance engines. But in my stuff I drain that 20 to 50 % gas out and start out with fresh fuel for the season. It a piece of mind.
If you leave the tank empty in which is never 100 percent completely empty because the pick up tube is 3/8 inch from the bottom of the tank and some even a tad more away - I have seen some a inch away. With that said, gas evaporates and forms deposits / varnish in the bottom of the tank over time. So when you put fresh gas in when ever down the road - the washing machine effect in the gas tank while driving or towing the boat breaks up those formed deposits in which lift off - then run thru your fuel system. This is why you leave a min of 20 percent gas still in the tank and do NOT allow a water source to enter. GAS CAP seal and or its O ring is extremely important along with fuel vent.
Actually more deposits form from NON ethanol gas as its evaporates compared to E 10 gas. Why - because E 10 the ethanol is a cleaner and or acts as solvent - just like rubbing alcohol. ------ If you ever had a very varnished up gas tank one of the cheapest and easiest ways to clean it, is fill it up with straight ethanol - let it sit for about 4 days plus tow the boat around a couple of times - then drain the tank completely. It will clean the hell out that gas tank. Try it as I have for the past 10 years. Also ethanol has a very high octane rating. FYI something like 112 or 118 octane.
For Non ethanol fuel put in a clear jar with holes in the lid for a year or 2, it will shock you of the crust that forms. Ask me how I know. E 10 gas did not form any layer crusts like the Non ethanol. I am not pro or con for either fuel. But the key is how you treat fuels when they sit for periods of time. That's the key along with fuel samples especially at the beginning, middle and end of the boating year. Also ALL new fuel filters min. once per year..
Last edited by BUP; 09-23-2016 at 03:06 AM.
09-23-2016, 07:24 AM
#39
Registered
It just seems risky to me. In that a large opening - or two or three - to the gas tank would allow critters, other fluids, etc to crawl/get in there and cause more issues. The only fuel issues I've had, have been ones I have caused.
09-23-2016, 08:33 AM
#40
Registered
http://www.boatus.com/seaworthy/SeaApr10Ethanol.pdf
First line, first answer of this article. I'm just going off the lies I've been fed by the marine industrial complex. Clearly it's a conspiracy to sell fuel additives and extraction devices!!!!
First line, first answer of this article. I'm just going off the lies I've been fed by the marine industrial complex. Clearly it's a conspiracy to sell fuel additives and extraction devices!!!!
