formula31

The biggest problem with getting the bell housing off in the boat is that plate that bolts to the front bottom of the bellhousing and covers the flywheel. That can be a wiener if you can't get under the engine. Once you get it off, you will either see a triangular shaped coupler with 3 bolts or a full round one. If its triangular, you can have one of mine, Im replacing with full plate style for bigger HP. I always make a pilot bore shaft (fits tight) for the splines and rotate the engine and check for any runout. I have seen some real bad.

Shorgasm

Any idea where I should start looking for an "affordable"...coupler......

Oh and mercruiser is not my idea of affordable........

formula31

boatfix.com. Theres a full plate one on ebay that I want to buy. Dennis bid on it already but I need one more desperatly. Like I said, if its a triangular one, you can have one of mine, their in good shape and should be fine for that 260.

Shorgasm

Even if it won't work thanx for the offer......I have no idea of what I am doing here short of asking questions so thanx......Terry

But then again I had no real problems getting the drive off so who knows......How do I go about finding out what type it is?....

formula31

Its not easy to see with the housing on. You might have some luck with a mirror and flashlight looking in the gap between the coupler and the housing. Ask Mark at Bam or George at Boatfix. If you know the year and maybe serial number, they might know exactly.

Audiofn

Shore: Hit your local deler and get the manual for this thing. I believe it will only cost you about 35 bucks. You have no problem working on cars as I recal so this will be a snap. The book will help you out a lot however and also show you the differences btwn all the drives. Hardest part is figureing a way to safely lift the engine. You will not have to pull it all the way out just up and forward a bit so that you can get to the plate and remove it.

Jon

Shorgasm

My buddy down the street has a merc manual for the engine and drives......he said come and get it......I have serial numbers for the drive and motor....BUT....the numbers on the motor have been changed.....all the stuff is Merc but the motor was swapped out.....don't know what difference this would make but that's it...


So far I see 6 bolts that hold this motor down....two on the bottom of the side motor mounts......these two are going to the stringers..they look Brand new so I'm gonna think these are the ones to tackle.....the single mount bolts don't look to pretty.sooo I dunno if that nut will back off...so i will opt for the stringer bolts unless this is a bad idea....

The last two bolts are the ones on the back side of the bellhousing?......right up against the transom assembly!

Waterfoul

Did everyone notice Terry said his gimbal bearing locks up with a load on it???? This MUST be REPLACED. To do so will not be easy.....the entire transom assembly has to come off, or you can try to do the drill the holes method, but it sucks, and will probably leak at some point in the future (ask Tinkerboater about this problem).

Pull the motor. Set it on jack stands next to the boat or in the garage, wherever. Remove the transom assembly (many bolts, both on the inside and outside of the transom....check the manual) and take the assembly to a merc dealer/service place if you don't know what your doing or your buddy doesn't know what he's doing here. The coupler is easy....unbolt the bell housing (several big bolts)...now your looking at the coupler.....if it's the triangular one it should have 6 bolts holding it on. Take em off, replace with new coupler, done deal. The gimbal bearing is a whole different story...it has to be pressed in if I'm correct....I don't think I'd even want to do it without some help, and I do almost all my own maintenance.

You would do fine to take formula1 up on his offer. Even if you have the round coupler, the triangular one will work fine for you.

Mike

formula31

The gimbal bearing can be replaced without taking anything apart except removing the drive. You need the right puller and then the right installer. If you cant borrow them locally, Im sure somebody on here can help. I have them for a bravo, not sure if they are the same for alpha, I dont think so.

AS far as the engine mounts, you can pull the stringer bolts as a last resort but you really should take the top nuts off. They are 1-1/8". Check to see if the locking tab washers are installed. If so, you may need to bend the ears up. The 2 bolts in back take a 3/4" socket and lots of extensions.

Shorgasm

Thanx Guys.....I believe we will be all good on the Gimbal bearing it was gonna be replaced anyways.....It takes a slide hammer and the correct attachment to do......My buddy just did couple in his Formula.....Pull the Gimbal out with the slide hammer and freeze the new one for while and use a race to run it back in.

Now the deal with the Engine mounts is this......the bolts to the stringers are NEW looking.....and by this I mean they look perfect!...Like a few months old perfect.....the single nuts that hold each side of the motor mounts look real good BUT....and I reiterate BUT....the threads look real bad.....real bad....I can't even see threads t tell you the truth......kinda of odd....but hey whatta expect?........It looks as if who ever did the motor swap did it via taking the stringers bolts out.....I don't believe we will be tackling those mounts!

My drive is currently sitting next to my friggin Formula in the garage.....funny site for sure....if that thing falls on the car you guys are gonna hear the scream from all your houses!!!!!! that ***** is heavy!....especially for one person taking it off.....LOADS of fun there...



I'm a little concerned about this alignment issue.....I do believe that the gimbal bearing went bad and took out the coupler but why would the splines in the coupler strip out and not the rubber it sits in...or is the coupler just metal period?