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Cord 02-24-2003 12:16 PM

OT-Question for GM techs
 
We've been having a reoccuring problem with our S-10 Blazer. The fuel pumps keep on burning out. The problem usually shows up as a no start situation. The truck may also die when at a stop, and has cut out (but not died) when being driven. Sometimes, the truck will restart if you wait several hours. The dealer has replaced the pump 3 times now, and the problem is still occuring. My question is; what is causing the pump to fail? This last one had less than a weeks worth of use on it.

OG Outlaw 24 02-24-2003 01:47 PM

Drugs in the Gas Tank:D

OG:cool:

Wally 02-24-2003 01:47 PM

Hey Cord....when i had an s-10 while i was an installer doing alarms and stuff for dealers...one of the head service guys told me to change the fule filters on those trucks like every other oil change.....said they are crap and go out fast! Also told me to keep an eye out on the whole "spider"assembly fuel injection setup under the manifold. told me that those are prone to go out as well....just passing some info along... :)

Cord 02-24-2003 02:03 PM

Yep, the dealer is shot gunning the truck. We just replaced the spider assembly and fuel regulator as it was leaking. They just called me to say that the truck starts just fine, so they can't diagnose the no start condition. They also say that my cap and rotor are bad, which will cost $300 to replace. I asked him if the bad cap & rotor were the cause of the no-start and he wouldn't answer the question. So I answered it for him. Morons.

vtec 02-24-2003 02:04 PM

Cord:

I'm assuming this is an electric pump.

Replace the fuel pump relay (cheap $6-$9 at national auto parts stores). Sometimes the relay sticks causing the simptoms you mentioned. Mechanics seem to have a hard time diagnosing this.

Also consider replacing the fuel pressure regulator.

Third, possibly a vapor lock condition, via the gas tank vent, etc.

Regards,


vtec

JUSTONCE 02-24-2003 02:20 PM

first off are they aftermarket pumps that you are using, if so there is your problem, the filter is true esp. if its an older truck. next time you drop the tank flush it to ensure your not resurculating any debris. and replace it with a gm pump.

Cord 02-24-2003 02:21 PM

VTEC-Yea, I'm thinking about that relay too. Might just do it. The problem with the techs is that they can't think anymore. They can bench test all they want but if it tests ok, then it has to be ok. More than once I've ordered the manager to replace something because I know it's bad-despite testing OK

The vapor lock is a good idea too. I'll look into that also. The regulator was replace when we did the spider manifold.

Cord 02-24-2003 02:23 PM

just once-we did the fuel filter already. I really don't know what the condition of the tank is in-but any respecting mechanic should have checked it. Yes, these are GM pumps are they are being waranteed at no cost to us. 3 pumps in 15,000 is a tad bit excessive.

rainmn 02-24-2003 02:26 PM

Cord - Can't help you with the solution, but I had to laugh when I read this. When they first changed the body style on the S-10 Blazers, my ex brother-in-law bought one. Within a month he was having the exact same problems as you are.
It would die on the road, the dealer would pick it up, then by the time they got around to working on it, it would start.
After not being able to figure out the problem for a few months, they finally bought the truck back from him.

Airpacker 02-24-2003 04:31 PM

Cord,first impression is they are doing the old flatrate trick of jacking the box to access the fuel pump for replacement. This makes the pump quick to change but if the tank has a load of crap in the bottom.guess what the new pump gets installed in? Secondly,these are a problematic pump. They are very suseptible to heat damage. Always keep your tank filled at least half way in order for the pump to be submerged in fuel(coolant) and it will prolong the life somewhat.


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