I am not sure if this is the same or not but here is what happened to me. I have a 98 Mastercraft prostar 190 with a 350hp 350 CI chevy LT1 in it. Came with mobile 1 from the factory and we kept that in it. At about 150-170 hours (cant recall exactly) I had a lifter(Roller lifters) go bad and bend the pushrod, sending it through the valve cover. The boat was still under warranty at the time so we took it to the local dealer. After teardown and inspection we found that the lifter had frozen up and wore a flat spot into the top of the pushrod as well as the roller. The force ended up bending the rod. The dealer atributed it to what is being said here, that the oil was the root cause making the lifter "glide" over the pushrod instead of rolling on the top.

The end result. 1 new head fully loaded with new lifters, valves , etc. Has run great ever since... no more synthetic in it.

The load on the lifter is different in a car than a boat ,not !
I don't know to many vettes or other street cars or boats that stay on the limiters :eek: most boat owners are smarter than that --,also the syn protects much better so its what you need in a high heat (which bty is lower than a car ) high friction which in the lifter bores would be the same ,, so syn is still best ,but use what you like thats why there so many types !!

like WHITENUCKLE says above and we all know cup cars and open wheel cars use mobile and red line at 7 to 10k rpms for miles and like he said they use the best and bet they don't ask Teague
what to use

Chris from your other post I can tell your a smart guy ,,you don't belive the dealer knew more than GM ??also the push rod doesn't glide over the lifter and the roller rolls on the cam and even if it were possible to glide and not roll on the cam it would be the coating of oil it was sliding on NOT NOT the metal on the cam so it would not hurt it ,especially flat spot the roller this is a myth ,proven time and time again ,

Again why would GM and ford use it with a long warranty if it was as your guy said a proven problem ,,,wrong !! They will blame it on anything ;)

I've expressed my views all through this post on syn to protect your stuff ,,,I'm done ,,use what you like the high dollar race teams and factories do !!!!!!!!!:D :D :D :D :D

I still am floored over such a bad design.:(

I`m unfamiliar with the Isky Lifter. How does it differ from the Comp Cams design?

Oil not the problem
 

Mobil One or reular oil you would have still had the same problem. I attribute this to poorly toleranced lifters. The Hydraulic lifter is the most tightly toleranced piece in an entire engine. If the needle bearings are failing as it sounds like they are in these roller lifters, It's not the oil but the bearings themselves.

I am pretty sure there is a thread in the technical section.

Other things to consider is wether at sustained high rpm are the rollers getting enough oil to take away the heat.

Sometimes the old designs (i.e. non roller hydraulics) work best. The offset is they do tend to "slam" and induce cam wear.

Wannabe in Motor City

Interesting since my Teague motors with hydraulic rollers shipped to me with Redline Race oil in them.

Anyone have Bobby Daniels e-mail or phone #

Will

There's an interesting article in last month's American Iron magazine re: The Motor Company's new synthetic oil product, that works in the crankcase, primary and tranny as well! Quoted someone(from HD engineering) as as saying the "sliding lifter roller" thing thing was a wives tale and they just hadn't authorized a synth. product till they had done all the testing/R & D.