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mcollinstn 12-24-2003 09:24 AM

I've had wheels come loose on several vehicles. Some torques by tire stores, some by friends, some by dealerships.

ALWAYS tighten in a cross pattern, just like you should anything with lots of fasteners. And go "lightly snug" first pass. Then tighten in three passes.

If you use a speed gun, then make a light pass followed by a tight pass. (in a cross pattern).

Some styles of lugs have a step, and wont' self-center. Others are self centering, but if worn can still sit on a worn step.

Saw a 71 BigBlock Vette come back in a tire store with one whole side torn off, the rear rotor eat up, the bottom of the car ground up and generally a big mess - all cause the kid used a speed wrench and didn't cross pattern.

Aftermarket aluminum wheels WILL need a retorque.

I do retorque all of my wheels at home after a balancing job, etc..

clearcut3 12-24-2003 09:29 AM


Originally posted by wannabe
With Aluminum wheels you need to retorque after 100 miles. The older style wheels have softer alum. and it causes the lugs to back off after it compresses.
Wannabe

I learned this the hard way. When I was about 20 I got a brand new set of Aluminum's and they didn't tell me to check them after 100 miles...until it was too late. I was on my way back to college and heard the lug nuts start ringing off. Needless to say by the 2nd one I realized what was happening. I got off of I-85 just in time...furtunately there was minimal rotor damage :crazy:

Roger 1 12-24-2003 10:33 AM

I use a torque wrench when I change or replace wheels. Call it overkill but I have`nt lost one yet.
Lug nuts are a critical fastener and have a torque specification. Under tightening is bad and over tightening can cause failure as well. Usually people with lug nut problems will have hitch ball problems also.


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