Or it will blow all of you oil into the intake.:eek: :eek:
I had that start to happen once.

Blowers are easier to install and setup.

Something everyone who has posted is overlooking is that turbo boost is FREE. You can make the same power with less boost than a screw because you lose power to the pully.

roby yeah you're right about water to air I wasn't thinking... :o

Coking? If it happens it's the operators fault.

http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/PICS/turboCha...gerBasics.html

http://www.finishrad.com/catalog/greddy-turbo-timer.htm

http://www.grc.nasa.gov/WWW/Oilfree/index.htm

For those who may not know, if you use a water cooled center section with a ball bearing turbo and you change your oil regularly then coking is a non-issue. Also you will no longer need to run that idle period before shut down.

Roby

No need to worry about the intercooler design. There are a couple very good marine designs on the market already. Extensively used in Water Ski Racing applications up to 1400hp. Richard Lee setup is the most popular now. He has water jacketed SS headers that work very well. Alternately, Gentry developed a system with a nice intercooler (the newer ones are much larger and more efficient) as well as aluminum manifolds.

The following west coast engine builders/suppliers have a ton of experience with Marine EFI Turbo setups, mainly due to their ski racing involvement. They would be able to provide advise on whether this is a good application or not and what to look out for. They could all sell you the right equipment to set it up too:
Richard Lee/Lee Performance Products
Gordon Jennings/Pfaff Racing Engines
Bob Teague/Teague Custom Marine
Gary Teague/GT Performance
Boost Power USA

Good luck

Hey Guys.... if the turbo and all it's plumbing gives you a boner... go for it... I really don't care... I'm not going to stuff a supercharger down your throat... I personally wouldn't want a turbo on a boat... I've had them on cars.. they are a neat concept..they work well in a car .. but NO MATTER WHAT YOU DO.... THEY STILL FRY THE SALT WATER IN THE HEAT SHIELD AROUND THE TURBO. So much for the power from a turbo being "free". I've been through all the cracked header/cracked heat shield/salt encrusted/ b/s that I care to...I've had a turbo set-up on a boat before... I'm not really concerned about the power loss through the pulley.... I'm concerned about having to disassemble my intake system every other week to keep it working. I'm concerned about even being able to get it apart without having to torch off studs because of the excessive heat around the turbine section. You want a turbo.... put on four or five for all I care....

I'm sorry you had so many problems Reed, but I must ask how is water getting around your turbos heat shield?

Roby

Roby... the turbos stuff is long gone.... the boat got 10-71's.... The original turbos had stainless hollow heat shields that covered the turbine section of the turbocharger... that section of the turbo glows bright orange under boost.... even when the engines had been idled down for some time... the remaining heat in the turbo would boil the water left in the heat shield... causing lots of salt buildup... inside... . On a Blown set-up... the headers never get that hot... the engine block never gets up to the boiling point.. but on a turbo set-up... the turbine side always gets hot.. this particular set up was an adaptation of automotive turbos to marine... so the heat shields were not integral with the turbos... they were merely water cooled shrouds... If you remove too much heat from the turbo.. you lose it's effectiveness.... because the power captured by the turbo is nothing more than expanding gasses from the combustion process... if you cool them.. they contract... If you look at a airplane installation of a turbo... the exhaust pipes are wrapped with insulation to keep the heat in. That insulation is not to protect the surrounding area from the heat... but to keep the gasses hot and expanding. You can't do that on a boat because of coast guard rules.

I understand all of that but you threw me with the watercooled shrouds. I never heard of such thing.

Roby

No problem Roby... I did most of my boating in salt water.. salt water heated above 150 degrees becomes very corrosive to iron. On the water cooled sections of the turbos there was lots of damage from corrosion... that is the main reason I'd never go back to turbos on a boat. If it were solely a fresh water application... there probably would not have been so many problems.

Supercharged!
Easy to install, no exhaust mods, nothing exotic. Monster torque from idle on up. I did break two transmissions and went to a Huber kryptonite and problem solved.
Learn from my mistake. Everything after the engine has to be rated stronger than the engine or it will break. And it only breaks at the best part of the summer.
Have fun!
Ed