Robert, some of the calpier seizing problems wer simply due to overheating. This could have been caused by a number of factors. Commonly, early on, manufatuurers and individuals doing disk conversions were not updating their actuators. this would facilitate a steady pressure to the caliper which was acceptable to the drum system although caused a drag in the disk. Subsequently, heat buildup and many problems to include seizing. Other causes are long downhill grades with constant braking and brakes on one axle instead of two or three. I have seen solid (non-vented) stainless steel disk turn blue due to heat, liquifying hub grease.

Some of the calipers made for trailers are aluminum with an E-Coat using a steel piston and a solid disk of stainless. There is a possibly potential for corrosion due to dissimilar metals in certian enviroments - I have not pursued any causes in this area due to us switch to a vented rotor and steel caliper as OEM.

Others, such as Kodiak are a steel or Stainless caliper and a steel or stainless vented rotor disk. these are typical to the GM truck brakes and are availible in E-Coat, CAd coat and Stainless. The cad coat seems to be the best value for the dollar with no reported corosion problems to date and no warranty issues to date to include siezing or overheating. I have tested these with a 10,200lb load, brakes on one axle and a 5 mile 5% downhill grade. I was simply impressed, baking was by trailer and engine compression.

Hopefully this answers your question. You are correct in the ele/hyd system pricing. It is a $750 upgrade for the system (our cost - ie: we dont mark it up) and does require stainless steel lines, DOT truck hoses & fittings due to the 1,500psi pressure this unit produces.

It is definately "Da Bomb" as my teenage son states it.

Re: Is he stupid, a risk taker or just lucky? (Yes me)
 

You should not lose a tire in 700 miles unless you hit something. You may want to weight your boat/trailer and compatre to your trailer GVWR and Tire combined capacity. If you are using torsion axles, it is also important you are towing the trailer level.

Reese Titan for 2003+ Dodge 4 sale
 

Some more scoop for consideration...

I've got a Titan on my 03 dodge and it's huge (but also does not allow my 35" spare to fit, so it's for sale).

Many newer HD trucks- like 02 and up have the larger WC hitches, I know my buddy's Chevy and the Dodge's do.

I tow a lot with my rockcrawling racing- about 20k+ a yr. 2 wks ago I had a wreck towing (which is why I bought the Titan- to get home). I had an inattentive driver pull out of a c-store in AZ without looking to see if the lane was clear- I was in it with a big white Dodge, 20' enclosed trailer and a lot of lights lit up (at 9 am).

I was on the brakes hard but still kissed him at about 20 mph to his 5 (pulled out reeaaaal slow). The hit was soft enough that it did not trigger my airbags, allthough it put his head through his rear window (I had 3 times the mass at about 16k gross weight)

The factory 12k/1200 wc receiver on my Dodge bent down about 20 degrees, a 4" drop ball mount being part of the factor. the ball mount actually bent up from the 2.5" or so leverage from the center of the ball. The ball and mount are rated for 10k, trailer weighs about 8.5 loaded. the trailer rides on 5200lb axles, all with electric brakes, which I keep set pretty tight for panic stops (I use my exhaust brake for normal decel) The ball shank showed no sign of damage but I replaced the ball anyway- same with the 5/8 pin. Thg pin has a kinder life due to the double shear as mentioned but also becasue the ball mount is almost never in straight push mode- usually the offsets but a twisting moment on it as shown by my damage, the friction of this load helps the pin a bunch.

Sorry for the long story but I figured it was real world showing the weak links and issues and would help someone- and I want to sell my Titan.:D

1800weaverd is the place to buy.

My X is rated for 11,000 lbs. There are no aftermarket class 5 hitches that I know of for the X. Plus mine is a rivet/bolt deal that has to be cut off. I have a 10,000lb ball and receiver and air bags i pump to 60psi. The trailer has surge brakes that stop the truck they are so good. I am not afraid of this set up at all, regardless of the numbers and words stamped on it. It was designed to handle at least 20% more than the rating and is way over engineered, like the example above, there were 10s of 1000s of lbs of force on that hitch and it bent but did not shear off. That is a very good example of how much these can take. It has a great deal to do with the way you drive and the weight of the truck (8800lbs ) When I tow I control the trailer, not the other way around.:D You want to see a perfectly balanced truck and trailer? The safest part is the set up.