GRP-you have mail.
Mark, I'll contact you based off our conversations.
DAMN! mcollinstn all ways a ball buster!
Hey, Rags, I wore my "Size Matters" Tee Shirt last night. It has a bottle of something I've never heard of on it.
We went to watch some jazz band at a local bar, and they didn't have any of it there.
What is that stuff?
I see London, I see France...
Originally posted by mcollinstn
Guys, you need to remember that stainless is a piss-poor conductor of heat. The aluminum cap will pull significantly more heat out of the drive than a stainless cap will.
If rigidity is what you're after, there are several aluminum alloys that are pretty stiff. Good ole 6061-T6 is dang hard to beat when you are looking at the whole picture. Billet 6061 is tons stronger than the cast stock caps, and in my opinion, is strong enough (not the stockers, but the billet ones). Plus you retain the heat properties of aluminum.
I just don't see real benefit from using stainless.
I was thinking the same thing, stainless may cause excess heat buildup in the drive and add more weight to the boat If you did need something reverse engineered I could do it but in this case you'll probably be better off just buying it from getreal. A few years ago we reverse engineered a snowmobile crank case for a guy that does grass drags all year long. He wanted to use a standard crank and jugs but we added a forth cylinder and changed the intakes to give it more air then we machined it from billet.
"Best" place for steering rams to connect is on the same centerline as the driveshaft. Above or below that gets into geometry changes as you trim up and down, but it's not a big deal and people mount them all over the place anyhow.
BMax does the steering boss thing right. Find a picture of one of them.
I see London, I see France...
That is one of the things that is really complicating this steering install-the fact that I'm insisting on the correct geometry. It's really easy to screw this up. I've seen the wing plates bent up like a pretzel from messed up geometry. I'm not gonna go there.
I heard Billet Marine was looking at making a SS cap. Their aluminum water cooled cap is a nice piece.
Max Machine Worx makes a nice cap, but not cheap @ $400. I'm replacing my Billet Marine caps with them soon. Let me know if you're interested in the Billet Marine caps. They would need new bearings/races.
Last edited by RedDog382; 05-03-2004 at 03:10 AM.
Stainless suck's for disapating heat.
For the about the same money your better off
I don't know why your looking to use stainless
it heat's up very Quickly but take's forever to
cool down. Also can Warp easily if it get's to
hot. Grow's allot with heat which may not
be good with that fitted bearing. Only thing
that seems to be in your favor is the internal
Titanium is alot like aluminum, we use Titanium
at work allot because you can cycle the temps
up and down very quickly.
Nice and light, machines better than stainless,
very strong, and you can polish it to a mirror
"If some is good, more is better.
And to much is just enough."
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