Yup. We used the hoist at Allied Marine in San Diego. I had help pulling it and dropping it back in. It's a real tight fit in my boat.

What exacty do you want to know? There's a lot to this upgrade. I guess it's relevant. Lots of other guys do way more and spend way more...

A couple years back I posted my results going from the 496 Mag HO to the Raylar 600. Even after adding Gibson mufflers saw best before to best after GPS of 11+ MPH in my 28' Velocity VR1. All I've been doing since is changing the oil. Completely transformed the boat.

I just picked up my 28' Silencer with the newly installed Raylar 525 HO. Nice looking components.
My boat would run 4800-4900 rpm and would see a top speed of 64-65 mph every time spinning a labbed 26 Bravo 1.
Test running the boat we saw 71 mph on gps with a non labbed 26 Bravo 1 spinning 5200 rpm.
The labbed prop was sent to BBlades for some cupping....so there should be another 1-2 mph with that prop back on and revving at 5350 rpm where Ray recommends spinning the motor.
I will keep the results posted.

who is going to reflash your computer to get you to 5300,,,,stock rpm is 5150

Sent the computer to Raylar for the reflash......5350 rpm is where to prop and the limiter was set at 5450.
I am not sure who does his maping.

Mine was done by whipple.

Ray,
Would you share the AFR's you use a various RPM's on your high HP NA engines? Maybe idle, mid-range and WOT?
Thanks,
Ben

How Do De DOIT?
 

I won't tell you our exact fuel mapping and timing as we have spent a lot of time and money getting there and we consider it proprietary, but I will say that we like to keep the idles lean to stop as much sooting and fouling with bigger cams so we keep that in the 13.2 to 13.7 range, once of idle under load from the idle transition to mid range cruise rpms of up to about 4000 rpms we stay in the 12.5 to 12.8 range and in higher rpms up to WOT peaks we stay in the 12.0 to 12.5 range. These values are approximate and we like a lot of others in marine high performance engines like to be conservative and stay a little on the fat side to protect against variables like loadings, fuel quality, octane usage, ambient temperature and altitude variations.
You must always remember though that there is no one setting that fits all! Every engine ,even those that fit under the heading NA are different and can be operated in many different configurations, condtions and usage. This means that the only good air fuel settings and adjustments that are correct and safe are those that are dialed in by an air fuel measurement tool on the boat or a minimum on the dyno with the engine under actual loads so that fuel mapping and spark mapping can be adjusted for that engine with all its various systems and usages.
Anything else is just a WAGMAR (wild ass guess made at random!).
Don't mean to be vague here but its a careful project and not to be fooled with without the tools and expertise needed. The damage (it only takes a few seconds under load with the wrong settings)potential to an expensive engine is just to great under boating usage to be dabbled in unless you are prepared to pay for your experimentation!

Best Regards,
Ray @ Raylar

Ray,
Thanks for your input and your "ranges" help.