Pantera1

I had some water in the cabin sole area in front of the bulkhead at the front of the cockpit floor..When I tried snakeing it out I got foam.. I wasnt sure if both drains passed all the way through the tank area. I think that would be a safety issue if the tanks leaked it would drain right to the engine compartment..

Pantera1

I just finished going through old pics on cd etc .. All I can find is some of the outside bracket etc ..The boats all covered up for winter but I can still crawll in there and take some shots tommorrow .. Its pretty beefy all the bracket bolta were backed up with 2 x 3/8 aliminum plate and angle braced to the stringers ..Its way over built but I can have 3 people jump on the bracket and the transom doesnt flex at all ..

Minx20

Thanks, don't worry to climb in the boat if it is a big deal. My main concern is what you mentioned as angle bracketed into the stringers. I am looking into how is the best method to go to re-enforce the transom to support a bracket. I would rather do as you did and over build it.

Thanks again E.S.

Pantera1

No big deal ..I thought I had pics of it being put together but I cant find any of the inside of the transom .. It was lot of work ..although nothing compared to what you are doing to yours.. If I had to do it over again I would have put an IO back in ..The bracket (i got a deal on ) has 30 inches of setback , " probably too much"..Before I put the tabs on it was a wild ride between 35 and 50 , porpoised like mad ..You had to just hammer it and it would start flying nice around 55-60..
The Tabs made a huge difference , but the boat is a lot of work to drive fast..

Minx20

As it stands now I think it will stay an I/O. It is a draw as to the pros and cons to converting back to outboards, so as I have most everything for the I/O it makes more sense to keep it that way.

Thanks for your advice.

E.S.

Pantera1

It seems outboards will take more high speed abuse than an io ..Unless you dump a ton of money into it ..Then theres the swap it and go factor ..I can drop a powerhead on in a couple hours ..Although ive yet to blow one up ..Lower units are another story If your carrera was originaly outboards its gotta be rare ..Ive never seen a factory outboard SS7M ..Keep the updates on the projectr coming , its a long winter without boating up here

Minx20

Second tank out today. Was not as easy as the first one but it eventually it came out.

Minx20

And the rear most bulkhead on the way out. Well now I can see the ends of some of the stingers where they butt up to the removed bulkheads and the wood coring is rotten. You would think that one would wrap the ends of the stringers with glass before installing the bulkheads, but that's not what happened.

So stringer replacement is next on the menu.

Minx20

Question for the fiberglass experts with concern to stringer repair:

I realize that the stringer coring on this boat is (was) wood. What is the problem, as only the coring is rotten, to cut the caps off the stringers, remove all the coring material, then prep and fill with epoxy. Then recap the stringer. Can it not be done because of the additional weight of the epoxy, that it would be too ridged, or what?

Thanks for the advice.

E.S.

Audiofn

You can not just pour in resin. First of all it would be HUGELY expensive. Second it would have no strangth. First wave and it would just crack. You should just plan to cut them out. It is going to be a PITA but at leaste you will know that it is all done properly and not have to worry about it.

Jon