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  1. #11
    Registered Formula Outlaw's Avatar
    My Boats:
    was a 89" Formula 311-SR1
    Join Date
    May 2003
    In the Mountains

    Re: Trailer Questions

    Another thought, be sure to go with "one piece" springs. That prevents water from getting between the "leafs" of a leaf spring and causing corrosion.

  2. #12
    Platinum Member Platinum Member mcollinstn's Avatar
    My Boats:
    1991 F311SR1
    Join Date
    Sep 2001

    Re: Trailer Questions

    Forget leaf springs. Torsions are the way to go. And they sit lower.

    If you galvanize the trailer, you must leave large (at least 1") openings in all enclosed tubing to get the "galva mix" inside the tubes, otherwise it can disintegrate from the inside out.

    I have no issues with drum brakes, as long as they have adequate flushout plumbing.
    I see London, I see France...

  3. #13
    Registered Tonto's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2000

    Re: Trailer Questions

    I personally would do a drive guard because I tow alot at night and the lights are up underneith the trailer and you can't see the drives at night. LED lights are the only way to go, I just converted my MYCO (10 years old) to LEDs. One trick that you can do is on the rear of the trailer were you have the three "clearance" lights, is to put a brake/turn/running light there and wire it to the CHMSL (center high mounted stop light) circuit of you truck (most late model trucks have this), this way you have plenty of brake lights for people to see. I know I wouldn't want to be behind me at night, I have 7 LED brake lights, 2 oval for brake/turn/running on each side and three 4" round in the middle. I'm still not sure on the torsion axles yet, if you have a flat, you have to pull the trailer up on a curb to get the tire off the ground or jack up the whole side of the trailer versus just jacking up the one axle. I do like the fact that you don't have the rusty, squeaky leaf springs with a torsion axle trailer. Steel or aluminum is your choice, mine is steel and whenever I go to Fl., I travel lift the boat off the trailer. The electric over hydraulic brakes is what everyone seems t be going with, I use vaccum over hydraulic and they are great. I would definitely go that route over surge brakes because you have more control of your trailer braking. Drums or disc? Mine are drum and work very well, but I would like to compare to disc, they are much simpler to service and should give better braking. Just my $0.02 worth for whatever it's worth.

  4. #14
    Charter Member #655 Charter Member dyno's Avatar
    My Boats:
    1993 Sonic 31ss
    Join Date
    Dec 2000
    Holland, Michigan

    Re: Trailer Questions

    Bill have Rolland whip one together for you ,steel with disk brakes electric over hyd. would be my fact I talked to Rolland about upgrading mine a couple weeks ago.
    If your boat has a sail do you ride a horse to the ramp?

  5. #15
    Registered captwk's Avatar
    My Boats:
    2005 Sonic 42SS
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Galveston, Texas

    Re: Trailer Questions

    How much and who built your trailer. I'm looking for a trailer to hold a 42...

  6. #16
    Registered Chris288's Avatar
    My Boats:
    2005 288 SUNSATION
    Join Date
    Mar 2002

    Re: Trailer Questions

    I couldn't imagine any plus of a steel trailer over alum, except keeping the trailer companies in business,, An aluminum trailer with stainless hardware, could literally last forever,,, a steel trailer, unless galvanized has a very limited life.. Torsion axles make towing my 29 footer with a 1/2 ton more manageable than my 23 footer with leafs, night and day difference.

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