I ll bite . What did ya get??
Guys- Anyone got a pre & post launch checks list. I want to be organized when its time to launch this thing. Thanks poolshrk
1. Put Plug in
1. Take plug out
Fuel, at least 1 battery has a charge, plug. Thats about it.
Oh yeah, a full cooler.
I "light off" the motors for about two seconds just to make sure they'll start before leaving the house.
Carry an extra "butt plug" and rember a wrench.
Don't forget to install plug before launch.
Trailer with drives up. (I know some guys don't do this depending on their trailer height)
Drop drives after boat is down the ramp.
Make sure you have all your "required gear" and paperwork onboard in case you are stopped.
Keep bow eye safety chain hooked up until you're down the ramp, attach bow safety chain before you pull up of the ramp.
I like having a "handheld" VHF as back up.
Make sure cooler has too much ice and too much "liquid".
Beautiful women are a nice accessory.
First and foremost, well after the drain plug, is to NOT unhook your bow eye until the motors are RUNNING.
Especially your first time of hte season.
I have seen countless people take the boats off the trailer, or just let them slide off once it hits the water, and then NOT be able to start it.
A little difficult retrieving a dead boat.
This Cat is trying to keep up with the Big Dogs
Ok, thought more of this.
Here is what I can remember doing 90% of the time since I only put the boat in about once a month
While in line, or PRIOR to backing into launch lane I removed the straps, except the front bow Eye.
Of course everything else is already in the boat done PRIOR to even arriving at the lake. Cooler, foods, towels etc.
after boat is in the water, not too far to float off trailer, but deep enough for water pickup.
open hatch and inspect for any water leakage. You will not see small leaks, but then again its the large ones that will ruin your day in a huurry.
This also gives the bilge a dose of fresh air.
At the same time youo can sniff for gas fumes. Especially good idea if the boat was just filled or sat for a long period of time
Turn on the blowers for more air movement.
Check exahuast for proper water flow. That is if yu have thru hull.
Check exhaust hoses for no water leaks. Never know if a mouse got in there and decided to make a home of your rubber hoses.
Check oil pressure, volts, temp.
If OK, unlatch and back off.
You will notice that I did not say anything about hte drain plug, mostly because I always replace mine after draining the bilge. 99% of the time in the summer i leave them in.
Once away from the dock when idling I do another once over in the bilge to make sure nothing has come arise.
Back at the launch.
when boat is on the trailer, I leave my drives down to allow the water to drain, but I have a Cat so the drives are still 6 inches off the ground.
Pull the drain plugs only if I know it will ba a long time before the boat goes back in the water. OR if I am not at my normal lake. NEVER transport water from one place to another
Wipe down the boat
Empty the contents of the days usage
Raise the drives for highway transport. This includes putting on the drive savers.
Double check that the battery switch is OFF
Put on the cockpit cover
Hook up the straps
Put the plugs in IF I have removed them.
I am sure I left at least one or two things out, and of course EVERYONE has a different idea and process.
This Cat is trying to keep up with the Big Dogs
MnFastBoat has a good list.
Personally, I like to run both engines in the driveway on a water hookup and also shift the boat. Lost of times I keep mine at a dock, but whenever it has been back on the trailer I go through the whole boat.
(OK, now.... is the prop spinning? Ok. Did it just stop? OK. Is it spinning the other way now? Ok.)
I just like to know when I get to the hoist or ramp that everything runs and shifts.
It sounds like this is a new boat for you, poolshk.
You might want to get a list of required safety gear and stuff.
Around here we get a lot of inspections while we are out.
We make sure that the flame arrestors are always clean.
Make sure no parts have been subsituted that are non-marine.
-Have a 50 foot line with a throwable type pfd.
-Have good quality pfds for all.
-Three non-expired flares.
-Proper anchor with rode and plenty of scope.
-Bilge pump works.
edit- distress flag.
Good luck, safe boating.... and where's the pic?
Last edited by fund razor; 02-18-2005 at 01:24 PM. Reason: forgot distress flag
Trailer to ramp
blow up motor
get towed to ramp
struggle to get boat into ramp dock and back on the trailer
drag broken boat home and leave it there for at least 2 seasons before you repair it.
That about covers it for me.
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How many keep the cockpit cover on while driving to and from the lake? The guy I bought it from said he does not, because if one comes loose, it beats on the fiberglass. does it stretch it?
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