dockrocker

Bill, I was thinking the same thing. The trailer is level in my driveway (maybe up an inch or so at the tongue) and the pipes look pretty damn level as well.

I've got an appointment at Millennyum Marine for Saturday, but I'm going to change out the oil and do just what you suggested. Hopefully that will be all that is necessary.

And Don, I'm going to change the gaskets for sure anyway. Actually, I think the "dyno don oil curse" has somehow found its way onto my boat.

Chris, there's a reason I haven't answered. The embarrassment is way too much. I are real stoopid sometime....

hillbilly24

WOW, I never thought I would start such a contreversy by explaining a possible cuase of the situation.

offthefront

iTrader: (1)

you might have been very right ! ..I'd be checking that angle before I tore things apart .....

RedDog382

Hillbilly,

I think you are hitting this nail on the head. I used to have this problem running my 311 on the hose sitting flat on the trailer. My tailpipes were almost flat with little downward angle. I would actually hear the motor miss and "klunk". It was actually water loading up in a cylinder. Lucky I didn't blow out a block or head before I figured out what was going on.

Back to the key question here ... were the oil levels the same before running on the hose?

hillbilly24

Dockrocker was man enought to admit that he didn't check the oil before purchase or initial startup, only before initial splash and that was when the problem was noticed.

RedDog382

Thanks HB. I missed his response somewhere. Night shift again ...

bob

Change the oil, drop the boat in the pond and fire on the trailer for a couple minutes and keep checking the dip stick for milk. If all seems ok, run it for a minute or two at high rpms and again continuing to check. If it still seems fine, try a sea trial for a couple minutes. If you get milk, start with the risers and then intake.

dockrocker

Mmmmm, anyone want some chocolate milk? Going to fill'er with fresh oil and take her down to the ramp tomorrow to fire it up on the trailer. I've got a quart of "Gunk" engine flush stuff in the garage, should I put that in there as well?

Anyone know how much oil this thing should hold?

blue thunder

Personally, that oil doesn't look that bad. I would refill crankcase with cheapo 40 wgt oil and go out and run it around. Stop and if possible crack the oil filter to let some oil out. If it looks like normal oil go out and run hard to get oil temps above 212F. Take it back in and remove oil fill cap and check for creamed cheese looking film under cap. If none, suck out oil and add more cheap 40wgt and a new filter. Let sit with no fill cap or other breather type openings in place to let evaporation work. Next weekend reinstall valve cover devices and run as normal. If cream cheese shows up again, risers, intake or whatever needs attention. If not, change oil one more time with oil of choice and new filter then pretend like nothing happened. Don't create problems for yourself. Complete the fact finding first. A little running with milky oil will not hurt anything if indeed it turns out to be a riser, intake or whatever.

BT

dockrocker

Happiness is a motor with no milk! I got all the old gunk out, put in fresh oil and filter, plus some "Gunk" engine flush (probably diesel fuel!) and ran her at the ramp. Put in about 8 quarts, took out about 8 quarts. Milky, but not too bad. Did it again, pulled out nothing but clean oil. No milkshake - looks like it was reversion from running on the hose.

Changed the oil in the other motor (can you say "black as sin"?) while I was at it. Looks like tomorrow might be the maiden voyage!