Leathl_WS6

Here's a little history. I blew a motor last year. I rebuilt both motors. They are Gen V 502's. Put them back in went out for a run and blew the port motor. Spun two rod bearings and heated all the mains. I did not have an oil temp gauge at the time but I figured the problems was caused for extrem oil temp. As the oil and allt the bearings were very burnt.

Here's what I did to try and resolve it. 1 rebuilt motor new crank and rods from GM. rods and main clearances are at .0025 to .0030. I installed 30lb bypasses in both motors. Installed Oil temp gauges. Sender in pan and one at remote filter.

I first ran the motor on a stand out of the boat with a regular filter on it. Oil pressure was 75lbs and would climb to 80 on a good rev. Oil temp was around 180. Once the motor was broke in, I put on the remote cooler and filter assembly. Pressure dropped to 60 and oil temps to 170 at both the pan and remote filter. I was not running water throught the cooler.

Now here's the crazy part. I put the motor in the boat changed oil to 40wt break in oil was 30wt. The remote oil and filter assembly was not removed since the break in run. I started the motor and I only had 40lbs oil pressure. I switched the filter thinking maybe I had a bad filter. Same thing 40lbs oil. After running the motor for a short bit to get the oil temps up the oil in the remote cooler was cold while I had 180 temp at the pan. the oil in the filter was cold also I mean cold like the motor was not running. Seems all of the sudded no oil was going through the cooler or filter.

The other motor had 180 at both filter and pan. Both motors have the same cooler setup and the lines are all ran the same. I checked the path of water and oil and its all fine. There are no kinked hoses. I ran mineral spirits and blew air through all oil lines and and coolers before I put them on and everything flowed fine.

I'm lost any ideas?

Wobble

are u absolutly sure that u didn't get the oil lines to the remote filter switched? some oil filters have a check valve and onlu allow oil to flow in one direction.

Good luck

Leathl_WS6

Wobble thanks for the reply.

I have looked at my remote filter mount and the whole assembly many times. it does not seem to have a check valve in it. It's open from one input to the other. There are arrows going in and out marked on the top. I am coming from the outside fitting on the block to the arrow in on the filter mount then from the out arrow to the cooler and finally from the cooler back to the center port on the block.

I can't see it being possiable for the cooler lines to be reversed they are only long enough to fit one way and the cooler can only be mounted on way.

Starnge thing is it worked like this on a stand for 45 minutes. The problem occured when I put the motor in the boat and changed oil and filter.

Both motors are setup the same way and the other works fine.

I'm going to pull everything off tonight and put a filter right on the bock and see what I get.

Wobble

is there any chance that your filter pad adapter is gen 4, if so it has an bypass valve in it. if so it needs to be plugged.

The filter housing doesn't have a check valve. the actual filter does if it is a mobil-1 or similar.

I agree on the filter housing having arrows. The filter pad adapter on the block should have them also.

While you have the filter pad adapter off, check that the 30psi bypass valve you installed is still in place.

I assume that your oil pickup is welded in place and has the proper clearance from the bottom of the pan.

Your remote filter housing should have a spare port where u can install a mechanical oil pressure guage to check for oil pressure prior to filter.

cant think of anything else at this time.

Leathl_WS6

My pad adapter looks just like the one in Dennis's book for the gen V. S I am assuming it is a for a Gen V. There is no bypass in it for sure.

I will check for the bypass in the motor that was on my list once I get the adapter off. That falling down was actually the only reason I could come up with that made sense.

Oil pickup is welded and has good clearance. I personally checked it.

I have tapped into the port on the remote filter with a mech gauge it shows 38lbs my dash gauge shows 35lbs.

Filter I am running is a HP4 From Fram I don't think it has the check valve in it. First run on stand was with a HP4 then once I put it in the boat I had a PH5 on it, After I noticed the pressure loss I put on another HP4.

Thank for your thoughts I just want to make sure I'm not missing something stupid...

1BIGJIM

iTrader: (1)

I did the same thing last year and spun a bearing. An easy way to test it is, unhook one line at the oil pad and see what direction the oil is flowing. Out is the middle of the filter(big hole) input comes from the outside(many holes).
When I ran mine backwords it worked for a while. Then I switched to a Fram that had the valve and all flow stopped

This year I have a oil temp gauge

PatriYacht

If you have the kind of adapter that screws on the block in place of an oil filter, the oil comes out of the block on the side and goes back in in the center. If you have a filter with an anti drainback valve, no oil will go through at all in the wrong direction. So I don't think that's the problem. A lot of people here have had problems with the standard Fram filters. Try a Delco 1218. It always gets a good write up and it's cheap.

JLANE

you have to be careful with the filters. All Ford filters flow one way. They have a ck valve in the filter. I learned the hard way as well. Never match a filter.

Good luck

mopower

Look in the top of the filter itself. A regular filter you can look down the center and the holes around the perimeter. A filter with a anti drain valve will have a neoprene flapper valve inside the perimeter holes. I always use a plain filter...it works.
Sure sound like the lines are reversed and you have two different filters.

Leathl_WS6

Well I found it tonight. lines were crossed. I must of did it on accident when I took them off to move the wiring harness. The HP4 does have a check valve thats why I had no oil to the filter this time The first time I ran it in the boat I had on a PH5 which does not have the check valve so oil was flowing through. Oil pressure is back up to 60 at an idle and 65 at 3500. Looks like I'm going to have cooler problems now. I was out tonight for a short run just trying to break the motors in a bit I was at 3500 for about 5 minutes and oil temps came up to 220. I know thats ok but I'm just scared what will happen when I'm at 4500 or 5k.

Thanks Everyone for your input.

Now to find some good oil coolers...