Oil Lbs question
06-14-2005, 11:32 AM
#32
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: STEVENS POINT WI
Posts: 324
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Oil Lbs question
Originally Posted by articfriends
Tech Tip: "Oil Filter & Oil Cooler Bypass Valves"
Excerpt from Speed Reading written by Wade Hajek of GM Performance Parts Gen V and Gen VI big-block crate engines come with two oil pressure bypass valves installed in the engine blocks. Both of these valves are rated at 11 psi pressure differential. One valve is for the oil filter and the other is for the production oil cooler. If you install an aftermarket oil cooler or remote oil filter that attaches to the oil filter pad on the engine block, you should be aware that you need to change the oil filter bypass valve in the engine block. The aftermarket oil lines add resistance which will cause the bypass valve to bypass the aftermarket oil cooler and/or oil filter all the time. Obviously, if the cooler and filter are bypassed the oil will be dirty and hot. Your engine could run hotter and could be damaged by dirt in the oil. If you choose to use an aftermarket cooler or remote oil filter that attaches to the pad, you should change the bypass valve to one with a higher differential pressure rating. A good choice would be GM# 25161284 which is rated at 30 psi. Remove the valve that is closest to the crankshaft and replace it with the new valve. Press the new valve into the engine block and stake it in three places. You should note that the bypass valves don't need to be changed if you use a production oil cooler which uses the production holes in the engine block and you don't use a remote oil filter. Also, if you use an adapter that just angles the filter for clearance you don't need to change the bypass valves.
Excerpt from Speed Reading written by Wade Hajek of GM Performance Parts Gen V and Gen VI big-block crate engines come with two oil pressure bypass valves installed in the engine blocks. Both of these valves are rated at 11 psi pressure differential. One valve is for the oil filter and the other is for the production oil cooler. If you install an aftermarket oil cooler or remote oil filter that attaches to the oil filter pad on the engine block, you should be aware that you need to change the oil filter bypass valve in the engine block. The aftermarket oil lines add resistance which will cause the bypass valve to bypass the aftermarket oil cooler and/or oil filter all the time. Obviously, if the cooler and filter are bypassed the oil will be dirty and hot. Your engine could run hotter and could be damaged by dirt in the oil. If you choose to use an aftermarket cooler or remote oil filter that attaches to the pad, you should change the bypass valve to one with a higher differential pressure rating. A good choice would be GM# 25161284 which is rated at 30 psi. Remove the valve that is closest to the crankshaft and replace it with the new valve. Press the new valve into the engine block and stake it in three places. You should note that the bypass valves don't need to be changed if you use a production oil cooler which uses the production holes in the engine block and you don't use a remote oil filter. Also, if you use an adapter that just angles the filter for clearance you don't need to change the bypass valves.
Ok i did put one high pressure filter bypass in and i blocked off the factory cooler lines. i had decent pressure before.
Dose NE1 here have a used Alpha lower housingprefix OC 1989 model they want to get rid of. I have abuddy that has taken a screwing for 3900 from a local marina and he is out of money and the drive is still a problem child. email me [email protected]
06-14-2005, 11:55 AM
#33
Registered
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: South Bend IN
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Oil Lbs question
Originally Posted by articfriends
Tech Tip: "Oil Filter & Oil Cooler Bypass Valves"
Excerpt from Speed Reading written by Wade Hajek of GM Performance Parts Gen V and Gen VI big-block crate engines come with two oil pressure bypass valves installed in the engine blocks. Both of these valves are rated at 11 psi pressure differential. One valve is for the oil filter and the other is for the production oil cooler. If you install an aftermarket oil cooler or remote oil filter that attaches to the oil filter pad on the engine block, you should be aware that you need to change the oil filter bypass valve in the engine block. The aftermarket oil lines add resistance which will cause the bypass valve to bypass the aftermarket oil cooler and/or oil filter all the time. Obviously, if the cooler and filter are bypassed the oil will be dirty and hot. Your engine could run hotter and could be damaged by dirt in the oil. If you choose to use an aftermarket cooler or remote oil filter that attaches to the pad, you should change the bypass valve to one with a higher differential pressure rating. A good choice would be GM# 25161284 which is rated at 30 psi. Remove the valve that is closest to the crankshaft and replace it with the new valve. Press the new valve into the engine block and stake it in three places. You should note that the bypass valves don't need to be changed if you use a production oil cooler which uses the production holes in the engine block and you don't use a remote oil filter. Also, if you use an adapter that just angles the filter for clearance you don't need to change the bypass valves.
Excerpt from Speed Reading written by Wade Hajek of GM Performance Parts Gen V and Gen VI big-block crate engines come with two oil pressure bypass valves installed in the engine blocks. Both of these valves are rated at 11 psi pressure differential. One valve is for the oil filter and the other is for the production oil cooler. If you install an aftermarket oil cooler or remote oil filter that attaches to the oil filter pad on the engine block, you should be aware that you need to change the oil filter bypass valve in the engine block. The aftermarket oil lines add resistance which will cause the bypass valve to bypass the aftermarket oil cooler and/or oil filter all the time. Obviously, if the cooler and filter are bypassed the oil will be dirty and hot. Your engine could run hotter and could be damaged by dirt in the oil. If you choose to use an aftermarket cooler or remote oil filter that attaches to the pad, you should change the bypass valve to one with a higher differential pressure rating. A good choice would be GM# 25161284 which is rated at 30 psi. Remove the valve that is closest to the crankshaft and replace it with the new valve. Press the new valve into the engine block and stake it in three places. You should note that the bypass valves don't need to be changed if you use a production oil cooler which uses the production holes in the engine block and you don't use a remote oil filter. Also, if you use an adapter that just angles the filter for clearance you don't need to change the bypass valves.
06-14-2005, 01:34 PM
#34
Registered
Re: Oil Lbs question
To simplify the bypass issue I just went with a new block off that didn't have a bypass. My oil pressure sender in the filter mounting pad on the downstream side of the filter. I change my oil and filter often enough I don't sweat the bypass being eliminated. Those block adaptors are pretty cheap.
Craig
Craig
06-24-2005, 07:58 AM
#35
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: STEVENS POINT WI
Posts: 324
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Oil Lbs question
OK so i am pretty sure i fried the bearings cam and lifters. I can only get 55mph out of it after i put the new cooler on it and changed to mobile 1 synthetic 15 w 50 (+10lbs change in pressure). The past three weekends i put the boat in and ideled 1000 ft to a local sandbar and sat and had a few beers and ideld back. the oil pressure never dropped below 30lbs cuz it never got hot. I now cannot get over 55 mph... i am going to try a plug in the bypass to see what pressure it and i am not going to look at it till the 4th weekend and then the power is coming out. to get redone. 94 mph to 55mph in 18hrs of run time........there has to be a club, or there should be one, for people who fried their motors idioticaly..... kinda like the Darwin Awards, killing your self in a idiotic manner before you procreate......................
What should we call the club?
Last edited by hpy540; 06-24-2005 at 08:12 AM.
06-24-2005, 08:09 AM
#36
Registered
Re: Oil Lbs question
If you fried bearings there should be something in your filter. This doesn't sound good, but some simple checks may help to save you a bunch of work. Is the motor knocking or is there valve train clatter? If the cam is wiped you will likely hear clatter. Another check is to put a mechanical oil pressure guage on to verify the electric. I have found most electric guages to be way off in terms of accuracy. Sorry about your bad luck!! Hopefully it won't hurt ($$$) to bad!
Craig
Craig
06-24-2005, 08:20 AM
#37
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: STEVENS POINT WI
Posts: 324
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Oil Lbs question
I did put a mechanical on it.... the readings are the same.
One rocker arm is nocking slightly and there is a very slight loose sound just like something isnt quite right. not a knock.... i have blown up stuff before and this dosent sound like it.
So I am going to pull the intake today and check the cam and put a freeze plug in the bypass. Maybe i can get buy with just cam and lifters for the rest of season so can freshen next winter. I thought i did everything right........ with the exception of a oil temp guage. It was fine up here untill the water temps warmed up. In 43 degree water everything was fine. And it is not bad luck, it is my own ignorance for not getting far enough in front of the curve on this stuff.....
will post more later......
One rocker arm is nocking slightly and there is a very slight loose sound just like something isnt quite right. not a knock.... i have blown up stuff before and this dosent sound like it.
So I am going to pull the intake today and check the cam and put a freeze plug in the bypass. Maybe i can get buy with just cam and lifters for the rest of season so can freshen next winter. I thought i did everything right........ with the exception of a oil temp guage. It was fine up here untill the water temps warmed up. In 43 degree water everything was fine. And it is not bad luck, it is my own ignorance for not getting far enough in front of the curve on this stuff.....
will post more later......
06-27-2005, 01:20 PM
#38
Registered
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: STEVENS POINT WI
Posts: 324
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: Oil Lbs question
Ok so i puled the motor and put a frost plug in the pressure bypass on the block. i had 65 lbs on cold idle and i ideled around for a hour at 1500-1700 rpm and i had 25 psi warm idle and 40 psi WOT hot. i decided to check health on the motor and make a couple of top end runs. 1/2 tank of fuel and me in the boat and i can only get 75 mph .......... I went about 10 miles each way and now i the pressure guage is bouncing under 10lb again. At times it looks to be zero at idle???
I am going to wait till after this comming weekend and pull the motor to regrind the crank.
what am i doing wrong here?
I now have 15w 50 mobile one in ithe motor. Am i generating that much heat that the oil cannot come down in temp? I did have a slight nocking and i found out i just had one loose rocker arm. i didn't put enough on the jam nut. i tightened it up and we are all good but i am still not getting my top end numbers.
when i am ideling hot it dose not sound good. it sounds bad... kinda loose, but only when i am in the water. on the trailer it sounds normal.
The water temps here are now between 75 and 80....
what should i hold my clearances to on my bearings next time? i am thinking more to the .002 to .0022 side on the mains
I was really getting frustrated and disheartend....... I was to the point of "give me 26k for it and you can have it"
.......... I went about 10 miles each way and now i the pressure guage is bouncing under 10lb again. At times it looks to be zero at idle??? I am going to wait till after this comming weekend and pull the motor to regrind the crank.
what am i doing wrong here?
I now have 15w 50 mobile one in ithe motor. Am i generating that much heat that the oil cannot come down in temp? I did have a slight nocking and i found out i just had one loose rocker arm. i didn't put enough on the jam nut. i tightened it up and we are all good but i am still not getting my top end numbers.
when i am ideling hot it dose not sound good. it sounds bad... kinda loose, but only when i am in the water. on the trailer it sounds normal.
The water temps here are now between 75 and 80....
what should i hold my clearances to on my bearings next time? i am thinking more to the .002 to .0022 side on the mains
I was really getting frustrated and disheartend....... I was to the point of "give me 26k for it and you can have it"
