Coupler change in 25 Outlaw - any hints?
07-11-2005, 01:51 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Coupler change in 25 Outlaw - any hints?
Have to help a friend put a coupler in a 2000 Baja 25 Outlaw with a 415 EFI motor. Any hints to make it easier? What is required to re-align the motor? Tools etc.
We have use of a good lift for getting the motor out.
Should he buy the steel coupler or the aluminum? Stock power and where we boat the boat doesn't come out of the water much if at all.
We have use of a good lift for getting the motor out.
Should he buy the steel coupler or the aluminum? Stock power and where we boat the boat doesn't come out of the water much if at all.
Charter Member
07-11-2005, 04:49 PM
#4
Re: Coupler change in 25 Outlaw - any hints?
You need the tool, should not be an 'if' choice. 
Assuming stock Merc stud motor mounts, check that the lower adjusting nut has not backed down before doing any removal work. If it has, then raise the lower nut back up until the mount is tight against the upper lock nut 1st, THEN remove the upper nut, allowing the motor to come out, leaving the lower nut alone. Reason being the top nut won't move making for an out of alignment issue like the lower nuts are very prone to doing. By riasing the motor back up to the originaal position, assuming it was aligned correctly at one time, you will be very close on alignment when reinstalling saving some headaches.
ALignment is really easy, just think about the grease marks on the tool when checking. Wiped off on the top= lower the front of motor.
Alum couple is plenty, Would rather wear the aluminum splines vs putting extreme pressure on the gimble, bearing, input shaft............
Why does it need replaced already? Motor mounts back off? Double check that 1st
Assuming stock Merc stud motor mounts, check that the lower adjusting nut has not backed down before doing any removal work. If it has, then raise the lower nut back up until the mount is tight against the upper lock nut 1st, THEN remove the upper nut, allowing the motor to come out, leaving the lower nut alone. Reason being the top nut won't move making for an out of alignment issue like the lower nuts are very prone to doing. By riasing the motor back up to the originaal position, assuming it was aligned correctly at one time, you will be very close on alignment when reinstalling saving some headaches.
ALignment is really easy, just think about the grease marks on the tool when checking. Wiped off on the top= lower the front of motor.
Alum couple is plenty, Would rather wear the aluminum splines vs putting extreme pressure on the gimble, bearing, input shaft............
Why does it need replaced already? Motor mounts back off? Double check that 1st
Last edited by US1 Fountain; 07-11-2005 at 04:52 PM.
07-11-2005, 05:00 PM
#5
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VIP Member
Re: Coupler change in 25 Outlaw - any hints?
Originally Posted by US1 Fountain
You need the tool, should not be an 'if' choice.
Assuming stock Merc stud motor mounts, check that the lower adjusting nut has not backed down before doing any removal work. If it has, then raise the lower nut back up until the mount is tight against the upper lock nut 1st, THEN remove the upper nut, allowing the motor to come out, leaving the lower nut alone. Reason being the top nut won't move making for an out of alignment issue like the lower nuts are very prone to doing. By riasing the motor back up to the originaal position, assuming it was aligned correctly at one time, you will be very close on alignment when reinstalling saving some headaches.
ALignment is really easy, just think about the grease marks on the tool when checking. Wiped off on the top= lower the front of motor.
Alum couple is plenty, Would rather wear the aluminum splines vs putting extreme pressure on the gimble, bearing, input shaft............
Why does it need replaced already? Motor mounts back off? Double check that 1st
Assuming stock Merc stud motor mounts, check that the lower adjusting nut has not backed down before doing any removal work. If it has, then raise the lower nut back up until the mount is tight against the upper lock nut 1st, THEN remove the upper nut, allowing the motor to come out, leaving the lower nut alone. Reason being the top nut won't move making for an out of alignment issue like the lower nuts are very prone to doing. By riasing the motor back up to the originaal position, assuming it was aligned correctly at one time, you will be very close on alignment when reinstalling saving some headaches.
ALignment is really easy, just think about the grease marks on the tool when checking. Wiped off on the top= lower the front of motor.
Alum couple is plenty, Would rather wear the aluminum splines vs putting extreme pressure on the gimble, bearing, input shaft............
Why does it need replaced already? Motor mounts back off? Double check that 1st
Good advice.
That's the way I've done it in the past.
The only thing I can really add is, make shure
the fiber washer and the spring "gizmo" on the rear
mounts stay in place, once you drop the engine back in.
Last edited by jt29olhp500s; 07-11-2005 at 05:17 PM.
07-12-2005, 08:25 AM
#8
Registered
Thread Starter
Re: Coupler change in 25 Outlaw - any hints?
Thanks for the excellent info.
US1 - the "if" should have read if we get the tool and align it ourselves or whether we have someone align it.
US1 - the "if" should have read if we get the tool and align it ourselves or whether we have someone align it.
07-13-2005, 12:12 AM
#9
Re: Coupler change in 25 Outlaw - any hints?
I have no idea on the charge to have it checked and adjusted if needed, but I'm assuming you could buy the tool for less, and then have it forever. I pull my drives every spring for greasing and alignment checking.
