ratman

i put a pair of tall deck where there were short decks...i used a/mkt heads which haev a raised ex port. now i can't quite get my exhaust to fit as the two center pipes hit each other!
who makes the thinest exhaust gasket for bbc? how much can i safley mill off the header where it meets the head with out having problems? here is a pic of my pipes. i only need maybe 3/16 of an inch to get them to clear each other. i was also thinking of losening all the motor mount bolts and sticking a port a power between the motors to see if i can buy my self a lil more distance between em. any other ideas would be HUGE at this Point...thx in advance for any suggestions. ratman

now where's my f ing Grinder

WETTE VETTE

What the hell kind of exhaust are those?

ratman

i was told they are lightning cast alum headers with ss tails, if anyone has any info on the maufacturer now would be a GREAT time to share it with me as i would love to contact them BEFORE i got out my grinder...there was a set on the classifieds, i think intense marine had 1 pair. they have huge primaries appx 30 inches then the tails. i run ssm#3a's with a really high X the carbs are above the deck of the boat, the headers go over transum and look bad azz. i dont want to buy new exhaust right now i will wait until mer finishes my blower motors and will get new headers to install with the blower motors but will still run them over transum. my engine hatch is flat with tall pro stock style hood scoops. i like the flat look it doesn't ruin the lines of the boat, and this exhaust pokes up out of the engine hacth and goes right over the transum. haven't seen ANYONE else running this set up so its kool to be a lil different. i just need a little clearence to make em fit! Suggestions ANYONE

ratman

TTT,ttt,help

Payton

I wouldn't think you would want to move the engines. The drives will be out of alignment then. How thick are the fkanges that bolt up to the head? I would think you could have some milled off of each side. Do you need 3/16 total? Take half off of each side.

They do look kind of cool.

WETTE VETTE

Payton is onto something. Those are some seriously beefy manifolds and I'll bet they are pretty thick. Mill 3/32 off both manifolds where they hit. They are aluminum which means easy repairs if you happen to poke into the water port. My bet is the wall thickness is 3/16+ on those monsters.

ratman

i was thinking the there is a tiny bit of slop on the engine mounting plates and L brackets if i put a port a power between the motor and put just a little pressure i could push em 1/16th to 1/8th of an inch apart and then look for a bit more room with some milling on the flange of the headers where they meet the heads i dont think i need to grind on the pipes themselves. thx for NY ideas you care to add. thx again, ratman

ratman

loud,dry, cheap...they came with my cig...will be getting new exhaust for the blower motors when they are ready to go in the boat...what was that fred cost less 10% if i put trick amrine decals all over the boat? im in...now what centers should the engines be on to handle the BIG cmi's? will my tails work? straight over the transum

Sydwayz

iTrader: (1)

Now THAT was F ing funny!

88Fountain

iTrader: (1)

Thats something I noticed with my old 454 mags. They were pretty close together. When I built new motors, I specifically went with standard deck height blocks (9.8). I thought the aftermarket heads I was going to use had standard height exhaust ports. They didn't. After buying new CMI headers, I dropped the new blocks in with the head gaskets on and the bare heads. Then I went to put the headers on with gaskets to mock everything up and it wasn't even close. Lucky for me, I did all of this right after I received the headers and Teague Custom Marine returned them with no problems. They sent me Imco's, which don't look nearly as cool, but they fit. I think they fit 33" center to center motors, mine are located 33 1/4". Good luck with the project and hopefully those flanges can be milled as others have suggested.