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Old 08-29-2005, 11:50 PM
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Default Re: Oil System Plumbing

Originally Posted by RLW
Rotax,
When I refer to a drilled fitting I mean something along the order of Item #21 in the below picture.
Then what you are recommending is the straight NPT to #10AN adapter fitting, then screw on the #10AN 90 degree push-on hose fitting. Correct?
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Old 08-30-2005, 07:57 AM
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Default Re: Oil System Plumbing

The consensus has always been, not to use any 90's regardless of design. If you can use a straight fitting then by all means use that and then sweep the hose to your next connection. I am trying to keep my circuit tight but not cause and disturbance in flow. The use of a swept style 90 versus a drilled 90 is definitely better but to eliminate any 90's is the best.
Cooler size is important as you can read in the above posts.
I still question the 90 degree bypass on the T-stat style cooler pictured above, especially with all this talk of not using 90's.
Bottom line is minimize oil flow disturbances, have adequate flow and size your cooler for maximized cooling without being too cold. Oil T-stats can insure that. Oil temp and oil pressure gauges are a must or you'll never really know what you have.
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Old 08-30-2005, 08:37 AM
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Default Re: Oil System Plumbing

Hydrocruiser: I like the look of that dual cooler; thanks for the info.

About drilled 90s...if you have to use one because you have no choice due to the installation layout, OK. Ideally when a (Merc) engineer lays out oil plumbing they should/could do a calculation of pressure loss and make sure that the pump can deliver the required volume at that pressure loss.

Big lines, no angle fittings (you can often use a long sweeping section of hose instead), dual coolers; all mean lower pressure loss and therefore more volume. Sufficient cooling of the oil is important, but oil volume flowrate is the other part of the equation for removing heat.
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Old 08-30-2005, 08:49 AM
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Default Re: Oil System Plumbing

Just something interesting I found. Most oil coolers of this size have 1/2 npt threads to hook up your oil lines. -10 to 1/2 npt adapters have a much larger id than -8 to 1/2 npt adapters. Also, the fitting that RLW is showing in his first post is a full flow fitting. It is much preferred over the ones that look like a block of brass with 2 holes drilled in it.
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Old 08-30-2005, 04:26 PM
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Arrow Re: Oil System Plumbing

The dual cooler solves most anyone's problem who have asked me about oil cooling. It's the mother of coolers and can be used in tandem for earthshaking cooling...the thermostat cooler is good up to 400-500 HP...it is a nice design but the big hot running engines seem to not like the T-stat and run hot with the unit I hear.
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Old 08-30-2005, 04:28 PM
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Arrow Re: Oil System Plumbing

[QUOTE=ROTAX454]
Originally Posted by Hydrocruiser
http://www.hardin-marine.com/product...il-coolers.htm

Dual Tandem Oil Cooler 2" Diameter / 18" Length
This is one of the best designs anywhere. Two coolers and only one water hose connection. Each tube consists of thirty-one 1/4" seamless tubes with displacement baffles so you can be assured you're getting maximum cooling when you need it.

or

"The Ultimate" Hi-Performance Thermostatically Controlled CoolerQuite simply, the ultimate oil cooler on the market today! It maintains oil temperature thermostatically and all in one unit. If you suffer from either high oil temperature or even moisture or condensation in your engine oil this is the answer. The oil thermostat is designed to maintain an oil operating temperature between 190 degrees and 215 degrees. The thermostat bypasses the cooler until operating temperature has been reached and then balances oil flow to maintain optimum oil temperature. This alone can save you from years of damage caused by operating your boat with too cold oil.



Is what you are saying is the Thermo unit opens at 215 and closes at 190? Just trying to get a handle on the numbers.
I do believe it allows warm up to 215*F and then is SUPPOSED to be able to cool back down to 190*F. It works great up to a point and that point is when your oil is above the 190-215*F...then you need to add another cooler or go with dually's.
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Old 08-30-2005, 06:59 PM
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Default Re: Oil System Plumbing

Originally Posted by RLW
The consensus has always been, not to use any 90's regardless of design. If you can use a straight fitting then by all means use that and then sweep the hose to your next connection. I am trying to keep my circuit tight but not cause and disturbance in flow. The use of a swept style 90 versus a drilled 90 is definitely better but to eliminate any 90's is the best.
Cooler size is important as you can read in the above posts.
I still question the 90 degree bypass on the T-stat style cooler pictured above, especially with all this talk of not using 90's.
Bottom line is minimize oil flow disturbances, have adequate flow and size your cooler for maximized cooling without being too cold. Oil T-stats can insure that. Oil temp and oil pressure gauges are a must or you'll never really know what you have.
Russ,the bypass on that oil cooler doesn't switch from cooler to bypass like your probably thinking.When its cold oil flows thru the cooler and the bypass,when its warm it only flows thru the cooler. So it really isn't a 3 way valve,it just allows some oil to flow thru the bypass untill warmed up. Its rated to 700 hp too,I am going to install a temp gauge by next season so i can see my actual oil temps when running hard because I have seriously exceeded its rating.I still have great oil pressure though so its not a great concern,there might be some cooling effect or less heat load too from running motor at 100 degrees,Smitty
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Old 08-30-2005, 07:05 PM
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Default Re: Oil System Plumbing

Originally Posted by Hydrocruiser
The dual cooler solves most anyone's problem who have asked me about oil cooling. It's the mother of coolers and can be used in tandem for earthshaking cooling...the thermostat cooler is good up to 400-500 HP...it is a nice design but the big hot running engines seem to not like the T-stat and run hot with the unit I hear.
I ran that cooler (the bypass style) last year with 750hp and .003 rods and mains,its rated for 700 and oil pressure never really dropped much below 75 psi while underway and 60 psi hot idling after long run BUT I don't have temp gauge. This year I've saw oil drop to 45 psi (at Idle) after running 4500-5000 for 15 minutes then full boost at 5900 rp'ms for 3 minutes,the oil pressure came back to 60 psi after idling for a few minutes so I'm thinking it is a little small and oil temp is probably getting up there,Smitty
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Old 08-30-2005, 07:15 PM
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Arrow Re: Oil System Plumbing

Originally Posted by articfriends
I ran that cooler (the bypass style) last year with 750hp and .003 rods and mains,its rated for 700 and oil pressure never really dropped much below 75 psi while underway and 60 psi hot idling after long run BUT I don't have temp gauge. This year I've saw oil drop to 45 psi (at Idle) after running 4500-5000 for 15 minutes then full boost at 5900 rp'ms for 3 minutes,the oil pressure came back to 60 psi after idling for a few minutes so I'm thinking it is a little small and oil temp is probably getting up there,Smitty
Go dual
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Old 08-30-2005, 07:33 PM
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Default Re: Oil System Plumbing

Originally Posted by Hydrocruiser
Go dual
I still need some kind of oil thermostat though,my system holds 18 qts of oil and takes ALONG time to come up to enough temp to run boat hard,Smitty
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