Vinny P

If you were to take a look at Nascar engine builders, they spend the most time and money getting the valve train working perfectly. From my experience, valve train is the #1 failure in performance engines.

toolz

I haven't dug any deeper yet, but the lifter doesn't appear to be mushroomed, and the cam looks fine. The lifter seems to be hung up on something in the oil passage, near the center of the lifter. Motor will be out this weekend, and I'll find the problem.

Also, I had a talk with the builder this evening, and it looks like he's going to work with me on this. I would imagine I'll pay for some of the parts, but he's offered to sleeve the block and do the labor, as well as R&R, for free. So long as the bottom end isn't trashed, I shouldn't have a fortune in repairs. Thanks again for the help. Toolz

toolz

Finally got the engine out and apart. It's not as bad as it could have been. There is absolutely no damage to the bottom end, other than needing a set of bearings. It will need 1 piston, the head fixed, rings, bearings, gaskets, and a new cam and lifters. The problem lifter has metal galled onto the side of it. The bore is fine. The engine builder says the lifter was machined wrong, but I'm not buying it. I think the only possibility is that something was in the oil system and got caught between the lifter and bore. It could have been just a chip of aluminum or whatever from an improper cleaning. The block was not new, and this lifter bore wasn't a problem before.

Now for the new question. I was running a flat tappet solid lifter setup, and I'm wanting to use a roller this time. What lifters would you recommend? I'll probably go with solid rollers, and the Comp 819-16's seem to be a good choice. Please let me know what you think. Thanks again.

Vinny P

I used Morel hydraulic rollers in my 540. Many guys here have used them will good luck.

PatriYacht

As a racing design, the Comp 819 solid lifters are great. However, they are not good for aplications where the engine is required to idle a lot. They are lubricated by splash from the crank and at idle they don't get enough. Combine that with heat from high spring pressure loads and the needle bearing in the roller fail. I know, it happened to me. After ruining the cam, little pieces of needle bearing imbedded themselves in the piston skirts and ruined the bores requiring a complete rebuild.

Comp has a new lifter out, the 866, which they are advertising as a marine and endurance lifter. It has an additional oil groove in the body that is supposed to get more oil to the needle bearings. I don't have any experience with these and I'm still a little gunshy. Hydraulic rollers run lower spring pressure and seem to last longer.

Mr Gadgets

Ah yes and the quest for the perfect solid roller lifter continues!! If anyone finds it... please tell me!!

Vinny P

Dick,
We all know that you have tried them all. Unfortunetly, without much success.
BTW, I read all the manuals you sent me. I learned alot. Now I just have to buy all the special tools I need.

toolz

PatriYacht- Thanks for the info- I'll look in to the 866's. I've read some of the other threads on the lifter problems, but the discussion usually gets to .750" lift and 7500 RPM. That's not where I'll be. Mine is a pleasure boat (27 Fountain) that will never see more than 56-5800 RPM, and not very often. It looks like my main concern will be with low RPM oiling, so I have to adress that. Any other suggestions will be appreciated- thanks again.

HighPriority

I can't remember now, (I will ask our engine build) but we have a set of lifters in our motor for the last 3 years with no problems. The engine has been blown-up and rebuild several time. I do remember that they were very expensive.


I do have a question; what are the best vales to run now days with high lift cams?

lowflyin

Another thing to consider is how often do you like to adjust the valve lash? That's another thing I like about hydraulic rollers... no maintenance.