Removing floor - Page 2

Prater · 10-10-2005, 11:53 PM

Here are a couple of shots before the removal. I will get some as I go along. I just started and weather and work are going to keep me off the project for about two weeks.

My plan is to replace the transom, stringers, and bulkheads. romove all the interior fiberglass and install new bulkhead and supports for the top deck. I have also filled in the portholes on the side and plan to fill the top deck hatches.

After that I will start on the instrument panel and build a race fairing since I do not have a windshield.

Catagory5 · 10-11-2005, 12:01 AM

To skin the inside of your transom, buy yourself a diamond wheel for a grinder or your air cut off tool. It will cut through the fiberglass skin like butter.

Audiofn · 10-11-2005, 12:02 AM

Rotozips can also work well

Prater · 10-11-2005, 12:10 AM

The sole of the boat is especially tough.

Audio, did you remove the sole when you replaced the floor in your 302? Just wondering how far up that drain tube goes?? I did not plan on replacing the sole just leaving it open for draining to the back of the boat.

Audiofn · 10-11-2005, 07:10 AM

On mine that tube goes all the way up to the bow. Best I can tell it is a pvc tube that was cut in half and glassed over. I removed everything but that tube up to the forward bulkhead.

Jon

Donman · 10-11-2005, 06:21 PM

PRATER:

Give us some details about your Formula project! What Formula are you working on? What are your plans for power?

MORE PICS ! MORE PICS !

We all love pics of projects!!

Prater · 10-11-2005, 11:16 PM

Donnie,

The Formula is a 1979 255 Liberator. It was completely striped bare when I got her. the project is more of a see if I can do it on a cheap boat before I get to big money boats. Plans are to remove the fiberglass from the cabin and put in a couple of structural bulkheads to keep the bow deck from flexing. Replace floor, stringers, and transom. Fix all the dock rash and repaint. Blueprint the bottom. I will also remove the outdated dash and instal a fairing. I am taking my time and working when the weather cooperates. I dont have a large enough shop to go inside.

Power is still up in the air, but I plan to put two big blocks with the TRS drives back in. I now have most of the drives and gimbals and trannies. I also have a couple of big blocks that I plan to stroke to 496's.

So far I have about $300 in the fiberglass and cost of the boat, $550 on the complete big blocks, and $3000 on the TRS parts. Clear title on the boat also. I do the computer work for a local race shop so I get my parts at cost and general machine work is free if I wait until they have spare time to do what I need.

I watch the auctions for parts to save money, and can sometimes find a deal from OSO on the parts.

I am doing this project with only my spare cash so it will take a while to finish.

I have s Sea Ray cabin cruiser to hold me over on the water until this one is done...maybe 5 years from now...

AIR TIME · 10-12-2005, 07:30 AM

Why Not Just Build One Nice Big Block Two Seems Heavy For 25 Footer?

Prater · 10-12-2005, 11:14 AM

Air Time,

I was challenged by some friends. It was an option for twins from the factory and I like the fact of having a motor to limp back on in case something goes wrong. Plus one large HP motor means going to different outdrives that I can not afford right now.

Zanie · 10-12-2005, 02:15 PM

Why not sell the TRS stuff and put bravos on?
Why drag around all that weight?
If you are'nt planning on big HP engines anyway?

If you bought two TRS drives, transom asemblies and transmissions, for $3000 you can make money selling them.
DS