vandeano

Is it true that the flow of the oil should run the opposite direction of the flow of the water cooling the cooler?

Because my oil enters to the same side of the cooler the water enters. By the way my engine is a 502 magnum with the oil cooler and power steering all in 1. Oil is Mobil synthetic 15/50 Gold cap. One thing for sure about my cooler it only takes about 2 min at idle speed to drop oil temp from 300 to 250 and about 5 min to drop it under 200 degrees

WETTE VETTE

300 degree oil temps is too high regardless where it is read. I run my NA 598 pretty hard and after a long WOT pass my oil in the pan approaches 240 degrees. Normal cruising temps are controlled by a t-stat not allowing the oil to get much below 210 in the pan. Synthetic oil will hold up better at extreme temps, but if I saw 300 on my guage I would be looking real hard at where I could improve. Likely the cooler is too small!!

Craig

vandeano

I was thinking about getting one from Revolution Marine it also cools the power streering. It sells for $269.00 Any opinions on this one or any other recommendations. And the price.

Thanks

vandeano

Wette Vette what kind of cooler are you running?

WETTE VETTE

It is the cooler from CP Perf that is desinged for up to 1000 HP motors and has a built in oil thermostat. Mine also has a cooler for the power steering. I think it cost around $475 with 2 mounting brackets. It really works great and I would recomend it to anyone.

Craig

JT Klein

300 is too high. Remember that most of that temp comes from the bottom of the piston. Windage is also a big contributor. You might try dropping the oil level by a quart and see if it helps. ( windage ) Then, check the tune up. ( wot A/F and timing ) Finally, a lot of bravo boats will ride so high at wot that water flow through the engine and coolers is compromised, adding to the problem.
Hope some of this is helpful. JT

vandeano

Now that you mentioned it. I was a little on the high side on oil level. Engine water temp never goes over 150. I defiantly need a oil cooler with a thermostat. The oil way I can get the oil warm is by getting my RPM to at least 2500 rpm and it still takes about 10 min. I already heard about the horror stories of bearing failures by not letting oil come up to proper temp before WOT.

KEPP

Vandeano, Keith installs all of his oil temp sending units in the remote oil filter, after the oil cooler and before the oil is returning back into the engine. You want to take the temperature of the oil as it is returning back into the engine. If you have any other questions, please call us at 386-446-0660 and we will be glad to answer them.
Thank you
KEPP

Wobble

I have two oil temp senders and a switch that lets me get by with one guage. Depending on the river/bay water temp, I see 35-50* reduction in oil temp after the cooler.

I was fighting high oil temps for 2 seasons and this is my 3rd cooler, which is the teague 4" offshore cooler with separate power steering cooler.

It is a 509BBC with ported iron heads and Ultradyne/Lunatti full roller cam. About 600hp/ft-lbs. Bravo-1 in a 28' Stryker Equalizer. The oil pan is a lightning cast aluminium pan with wipers and a windage tray. I also run an Accusump unit that lets me run 1-1 1/2 quarts low. WOT is about 5600-5700rpm.

IMHO if you are measuring oil temps after the cooler then 230-240* would be a sensible max temp wiyh synthetic oil.

I know that Teague recommends measuring oil temp after the cooler. However in my many years around race cars we always measured oil temp before the cooler with the goal of keeping them below 300*. That is with fresh oil every time out. In a boat and with sythetic oil, 280* max oil pan temp seems to be a sensible goal.

Wobble

That is what most cooler manufacturers say.