Milky oil, only after hard runs???
10-26-2005, 02:46 PM
#11
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Re: Milky oil, only after hard runs???
If it's a water leak, it would make sense that it happens at higher rpms where the water pressure is higher. I'd start by pulling the intake and then the heads.
10-26-2005, 04:23 PM
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Re: Milky oil, only after hard runs???
Starting with a good thorough Leak Down and if that doesn't yield any answers i'll pull the heads off. And inspect everything.
10-26-2005, 04:30 PM
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Re: Milky oil, only after hard runs???
Originally Posted by Grog
Josh -
I hope this isn't your problem but my case turned out to be a .020" flatness issue in the deck of my block between a water passage and the oil galley. Things were fine with stock power but the added stress from the blower, eventhough my heads were shaved and I used aftermarket head gaskets and ARP head bolts, was enough to uncover the flatness issue.
I still blame the engine builder here in Phoenix for not being thorough and checking the deck of the block before installing my heads.
I hope this isn't your problem but my case turned out to be a .020" flatness issue in the deck of my block between a water passage and the oil galley. Things were fine with stock power but the added stress from the blower, eventhough my heads were shaved and I used aftermarket head gaskets and ARP head bolts, was enough to uncover the flatness issue.
I still blame the engine builder here in Phoenix for not being thorough and checking the deck of the block before installing my heads.
Did yours leak right from the builder or did it take a while to discover?
10-26-2005, 04:39 PM
#14
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Re: Milky oil, only after hard runs???
Had same problem. Blower motor with crossover.
Water pressure was to high at high rpms and would blow water past the intake gaskets EVERY time! Tore motor apart, pressure checked block, fluxed the heads, everything. All checked fine.
I was using a t-stat and this was my first HP boat, so water pressure was all new to me. Removed the t-stat and used a restrictor instead. Never a problem again. Also, I always had to go around SEVERAL times on the intake bolts when torquing them down on the B&M intake. Even after 2 rounds, by the time you get to the last bolt, it has pulled the intake down enough that the 1st ones are finger tight. Retorque them as many times as neccessary until the 1st bolt is still torqued.
Damn use of the $5 t-stat cost me $100's and many lost weekends.
Water pressure was to high at high rpms and would blow water past the intake gaskets EVERY time! Tore motor apart, pressure checked block, fluxed the heads, everything. All checked fine.
I was using a t-stat and this was my first HP boat, so water pressure was all new to me. Removed the t-stat and used a restrictor instead. Never a problem again. Also, I always had to go around SEVERAL times on the intake bolts when torquing them down on the B&M intake. Even after 2 rounds, by the time you get to the last bolt, it has pulled the intake down enough that the 1st ones are finger tight. Retorque them as many times as neccessary until the 1st bolt is still torqued.
Damn use of the $5 t-stat cost me $100's and many lost weekends.
Last edited by US1 Fountain; 10-26-2005 at 04:41 PM.
10-26-2005, 04:42 PM
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Re: Milky oil, only after hard runs???
Perfectmix, are you running a thermostat?
If so, did you drill 3-4 3/16" holes in them for steam venting?
If so, are you running a pressure relief valve?
If you are running a thermostat without a pressure relief valve, then surely you have high water pressure, although 22psi is not too high. I would check the gauge...
Most setups like this will run 35+psi which is enough to blow head/intake gaskets...
I know, because I sadly have been there!!
Kent
If so, did you drill 3-4 3/16" holes in them for steam venting?
If so, are you running a pressure relief valve?
If you are running a thermostat without a pressure relief valve, then surely you have high water pressure, although 22psi is not too high. I would check the gauge...
Most setups like this will run 35+psi which is enough to blow head/intake gaskets...
I know, because I sadly have been there!!
Kent
10-26-2005, 06:32 PM
#16
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Re: Milky oil, only after hard runs???
i had that problem last season, turned out to be a small crack in the water passage in the valley, dont know what caused it , but took forever to find it. It would only leak at higher rpms.
10-26-2005, 06:34 PM
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Re: Milky oil, only after hard runs???
Thanks Guys..
The cross-overs have restrictor plates, no T-States, By-pass was set-up by the engine builder. It has a by-bass plummed into the Crosssover. Exits the transom near the exhaust. May have something to so with the torque on the intake bolts. Seems a few have experienced the need to re-torque several times before it finally seated.
The cross-overs have restrictor plates, no T-States, By-pass was set-up by the engine builder. It has a by-bass plummed into the Crosssover. Exits the transom near the exhaust. May have something to so with the torque on the intake bolts. Seems a few have experienced the need to re-torque several times before it finally seated.
10-26-2005, 07:29 PM
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Re: Milky oil, only after hard runs???
I will second US1 on the torque sequence of the intake. Use a Merc HP500 intake gasket, pricy but it has some compression qualities that will seal up very well. This is the type of gasket that is fiber impregnated, it sort of looks like the stock exhaust gaskets. Take a look at one and you will see what I mean.
10-26-2005, 07:43 PM
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Re: Milky oil, only after hard runs???
Originally Posted by Perfectmix
Thanks Turbo--We Torqued after one heat-up/cool down cycle. Was your problem all the time or just when you ran the boat hard?
He runs it in boost (3-5lbs) all most all the time.
10-27-2005, 07:23 AM
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Re: Milky oil, only after hard runs???
head gaskets i had this problem on a blown 540 under hard load was trying to pick the head up off the block try lowering the timing to 29 total if thih helps the motor is knocking also i went with cometic head gaskets no more problem
