Longrange4u

AWSOME Feedback... Ok now I have been doing some reading and have found allot of kits on E-bay and the like to stroke to a 496. Now some have the Eagle 4340 crank in them.. and some with the Cast crank... I am looking for a 500HP engine... that is all. Do I need the 4340?

ECeptor

No, not based upon what I've researched.

Are you going to sell you current engine and start over or are you going to re-build it? Is it EFI or carb?

I assume you'd like to get 500 reliable hps as cheaply as possible...or do you have a fixed budget?

Longrange4u

No you are right... I would like to do 500HP as reliable as possible... within my budgetary constraints. The Army dont pay well... so I am limited at what I can throw at it.

ECeptor

Sounds like we are in the same boat...pun intended.

Here's the advice I got from my v-drive racer buddy.

"Properly set up stock stuff can easily turn 6000rpm and live for years. Take my first set up for instance: Production 2 bolt block with good machine work and ARP main studs. A good cast crank, deburred shot peened, magnafluxed and index ground .010/.010. Stock 3/8" connecting rods, deburred shot peened, magnafluxed, resized and ARP bolts. TRW forged pistons. This short block was built 14 years ago and ran between 6000-6500 for the first 3 years and then ran 6500-7100 for the rest of its life."

That's my short block plan. 0.060" over gives 468ci. So, I'll get the extra hp by spinning up near 6,000rpm. According to my research and the advice from guys I trust, the plan I outlined above will get me there.

I think that's the cheapest route to a solid, reliable 500hp from where I'm starting.

Here's my power data from DeskTop Dyno:

rpm hp
2000 150
2500 210
3000 260
3500 321
4000 386
4500 452
5000 505
5500 542
6000 556

ECeptor

Back to the stroker thoughts...assume 1.1 hp/ci and the cost of the stroker kit (crank + rods + block clearancing machine work) would only net you 31hp. I don't know the cost of a stroker kit, but I'd assume $1,000 for everything would be cheap. Far better to put that cash into getting good heads and double wall true headers, imho.

RazorsEdge

Another one in the same boat....

ECeptor, which heads are you running to get those numbers? I have a 200 Hour, GenV 454mag (carburated, non roller cam) and I am looking for the flow numbers for the Heads (Square Port). I think Mercury says the 1995 engine has 350HP. I know the engine has forged internals, thinking about re-ringing the pistons and putting in a different cam to boost performance. Any suggestions? I am looking for the 500HP mark as well. Does anybody know if 350HP is at the crank or prop? If it is at the prop, what would my crank HP be? I am running a Bravo outdrive. How much HP does a Bravo1 eat up?

I'm sorry, I have a lot of questions...
Thanks,

Big Block Billy

If you decide to use 3/8" rods, get the thumbprint truck rods.

Longrange4u

Just wanted your opinion on this...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BUDGE...QQcmdZViewItem

Would something like this work for the rebuild... This is budget, but I want reliable as well.

ECeptor

The heads I used are "Canted/Oval Pocket Ported, Large Valves" selection in DT Dyno with 2.25"/1.88" int/exh valves. I'm assuming Edelbrock RPM oval ports or AFR heads will perform to those flow rates.

Here is a site with lots of head flow data - BBC head flows

Now, you are in a different boat than Longrange and I are. Your 454 Mag has a forged crank, heavy duty 7/16 rods and forged pistions. All you need is to rework your top end (head, intake, exhaust, cam) and you are good to go.

Again, get that book I mentioned earlier and it defines all this for you in much more detail. It's will pay for itself 100x over.

I believe a B1 eats about 5% of the power from the crank to put it to the prop...but I'm not 100% sure on that.

ECeptor

You just found the limit of what I've learned. I'm not an engine builder - just an engineer who loves to research and has gotten bitten hard by the boating bug hard.

So, my advice at this point is not to buy any parts until you have your whole plan outlined - including knowing and talking to the machine shop who will do the work you need. Before you buy stuff like pistons, you will need to have all your geometry worked out so you get the compression you want with your rods, pistons, block and heads. There's a lot of math to do before you should spend your hard earned $$$.

For me, I'm going to have my crank and rods checked out and if they will work, I'll buy pistons only. I'd rather spend any extra money I have on heads rather than 31 extra ci.

Again, have a plan that includes all your goals (power), limits ($$$) and the parts you currently have then find a shop to really nail down the parts list. Then it's time to shop!