Which drive indicator?
11-26-2005, 11:13 AM
#11
Re: Which drive indicator?
Originally Posted by Scott
I'm not too sure I agree with this. The top piece that has the barrel and set screw that holds the cable flexes when you turn the drives (boat) and the weld breaks 
Unfortunately I know from personal experience!
The other issue is the amount of sensitivity to the actual gauge it has a short throw so you only show about 2.5 numbers until you hit full trim. The ram style shows about 5 numbers of usable trim giving you a lot more accuracy when your trying to touch up the drives into that sweet spot!
I will be changing mine over to the other style that attaches to the ram when I get motivated unfortunately it will require a total cable change.
Unfortunately I know from personal experience!
The other issue is the amount of sensitivity to the actual gauge it has a short throw so you only show about 2.5 numbers until you hit full trim. The ram style shows about 5 numbers of usable trim giving you a lot more accuracy when your trying to touch up the drives into that sweet spot!
I will be changing mine over to the other style that attaches to the ram when I get motivated unfortunately it will require a total cable change.
I've found that the tube and spring type require pretty reqular maintaince. Most of my customers tend to go the other way.
That's not to say you're wrong. I'll follow up with Livorsi on your comments.
One of the slickest actuators is the Stainless Marine "no slack" indicator. Guy's that race request the Stainless Indicator pretty often.
Stainless Marine's No-slack indicators are recognized as the most accurate in the marine industry. All No-slack indicators utilize a triple-wound constant-force stainless steel spring to keep the inner cable under 4.3 pounds of tension. This results in a pull-pull operation instead of the push-pull found in every other indicator. Push-pull control cables have, by design, about 1/4" of slack built in which causes a major inconsistency in the readout. No-slack indicators have an inherent accuracy of a few thousandths of an inch. The indicator cable is exclusively used by Stainless Marine, and is flexible enough to make a 1" radius turn. Actuators are available for all late model V6 outboards, most sterndrives, most jackplates, K-planes, Bennett trimtabs. All actuators are available with Morse type cable attachment for Mercury, Bluewater, Livorsi, etc.
Last edited by TRICK; 11-26-2005 at 11:18 AM.
11-26-2005, 11:20 AM
#12
Charter Member #30
Charter Member
Re: Which drive indicator?
Originally Posted by TRICK
Scott,
I've found that the tube and spring type require pretty reqular maintaince. Most of my customers tend to go the other way.
That's not to say you're wrong. I'll follow up with Livorsi on your comments.
One of the slickest actuators is the Stainless Marine "no slack" indicator. Guy's that race request the Stainless Indicator pretty often.
I've found that the tube and spring type require pretty reqular maintaince. Most of my customers tend to go the other way.
That's not to say you're wrong. I'll follow up with Livorsi on your comments.
One of the slickest actuators is the Stainless Marine "no slack" indicator. Guy's that race request the Stainless Indicator pretty often.
I will look into the Stainless Indicator (sounds expensive 
After reading the Stainless explanation a Flexible cable may help with the Livorsi system to help take the pressure off that barrel. Something else that may work is a groove cut into the cable ferring that ataches to the barrel so the set screw will allow it to move side to side but not up and down!
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Last edited by Scott; 11-26-2005 at 11:26 AM.
11-26-2005, 11:29 AM
#13
Gold Member
Gold Member
Re: Which drive indicator?
Originally Posted by Scott
The other issue is the amount of sensitivity to the actual gauge it has a short throw so you only show about 2.5 numbers until you hit full trim.
11-26-2005, 11:35 AM
#14
Charter Member #30
Charter Member
Re: Which drive indicator?
Originally Posted by Dave M
I find that to be the case with mine too. I'm even with the "1" when full down, even with "2" at neutral trim, and not quite at "3" when trimmed for speed. It could be in part due to the hull's charactoristics. I don't need much positive trim to attain max speed.
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I have Steps & Bubbles!
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