deboatmon

I want to hook up waterhose inlets that exist on the rear of my boat. I plan on installing two valves and a tee to each line to allow me to get antifreeze into my motors easily. Are there guidelines/precautions about hose height and on being able to draw water with this system ? The current setup draws water straight from the Bravo drives and the hoses travel directly to the fresh water pumps. There is little or no rise there. I would like to mount the valves inside on the transom high enough to reach easily. Probably an add of 10-12 inches in height above water level. I want to be able to install antifreeze easily and quickly so I might enjoy a rare warm day in Jan/Feb and then easily put antifreeze back in the motors. Also, what's a sure way to tell if the thermostats are open to insure that my antifreeze gets everywhere it needs to be ? Anyone have experience with this procedure ? The plumbing is easy. I just want to make sure I'm not creating a problem.

Any advice will be appreciated.

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

I installed the samething last winter on my motors. Peice of cake. Inlets can be mounted anywhere, but will work best if mounted higher than the inlet supply hose. Gravity will prime the seawater pump vs, the suction used when going thru the drive. I didn't install any valves, just used the fitting cap to close that route when not used. That's a judgement call. Inless you are wanting to run your motor thru a flush while in the water, then you will need a valve on the main inlet side of the tee. I only was conscerned about running while on land, so no valve needed anywhere. Either the screw on cap or a valve will have to be used on your flush line, otherwise you will suck air thru that hose instead of water thru the drive.

Either run the motor long enough till the stat opens, or just remove the stat, much quicker.

deboatmon

Gravity is exactly what I'm concerned with, not the antifreeze entering from the top but having to pull water up 12" to the valve I'll be installing. It seems essential to me that there be two valves. I don't want my water supply anywhere near the flushing inlets when I'm underway and pulling water from the lake. I absolutely don't want the integrity of my water system to be dependent on the waterhose cap. My real question is the draw of the fresh water pump priming from 12" draw.

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

Not following you here. If your flush ports are higher than the tee in the supply hose, gravity will prime the seawater pump, so no dry start, at which point when you start the motor, suction takes over.
It sounds like your flush fittings are higher than where you will install the tee, so not following where you are coming up with a 12" draw.

Are you wanting to run the motor while it is in the lake or on the trailer? That'll determine if you need a valve or not on the inlet side of the tee. Since you are conscerned about the fitting hose cap, then a valve in that line anywhere between the fitting and the tee is sufice. Don't use soft hose from that new flush supply hose either. Don't want to take a chance on colapsing it.

monstaaa

If You Want To Be Sure Of Full Circulation Of The Antifreeze, Drain The Blocks, Which Should Be Done Anyway, And The Exhaust. Also A Valve Is A Very Good Idea. You Can Use A Ball Valve Or You Can Use A 1 Way Plumbed Directly Behind Your Hose Connection. Makes It Allmost Fail Safe.

deboatmon

Thanks US1 Fountain,

The rise I mention is relevant to the existing stock hose position. As I previously said, the stock water hose comes directly from the Bravo drive and is nearly flat, and virtually at waterlevel, going to the fresh water pump on the front of the motor. This constitutes very little "rise' for the waterpump to draw water from. Connecting an additional hose and valve to the transom and moving/re-directing the waterhose higher to make access easier may add approximately 10-12" of height from the water for the fresh water pump to draw water from. That is, relative to the stock posiution. There is a limit on how high any pump can draw water from "waterlevel". My concern was repeatedly starting the motors and having a possible "struggle" to get water to draw up to the T and then to the pump. That with the "T" being 10-12" higher than the previous stock application. If you raise/re-direct the water hose up 10-12" for access, you change the demand on the pump. Dry starts would not be a good thing. And yes, I am addressing stricktly the operation of running the boat in the water. Clearly, dumping water/antifreeze from above through the hose inlets poses no problem, as "gravity' is my friend there. Probably the best thing for me to do is insure that the fresh water draw is as close to waterlevel as possible. The flushing inlet takes care of its self.

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I'm following you here. A space/ convienence thing.

The tee can be installed right before the pump inlet as I have done. Naturally, the valve needs to be on the 'drive' side of the tee. I'm guessing this is your problem, not wanting or able to reach down low to close it off if installed next to the tee..
Consider splitting them up? The tee down low, and the valve installed where more easily accessible near the back of the motor so you are not altering the height of the water hose from it's current configuration, or at least, very minimal change.