jpclear

Yes: for those prone to not doing the job right in the first place this is certainly the safest way. Personally, I would prefer to do the job right and plumb it the RIGHT way. --- Jer

Wobble

For what it's worth, Teague does the same thing.

jpclear

Yeah, I know he does, and this has been an area of controversy for some time, and as I said "it's the safest way". But I still don't believe it's the RIGHT way. I would much prefer to run the hotter, thinner oil through my filter, do a better job of filtering it that way with less resistance and then cool it before sending it back to my lifters and bearings. If you clean and build the engine properly in the first place, there is no reason to use the cooler to catch the junk you missed in the build. And for what it's worth, I usually agree with Teague , but not always, and certainly not this time. --- Jer

stinger390

What about running the filter after the cooler for the first 25 hrs or so. Changing the oil and filter, and swoping the hose connections back to filter before the cooler. It seems that might get all the junk in the fiter while giving the cooler a good flushing, and then switch back to the normal plumbing. Thoughts on that? (also a compromise on the arguement) I know it's complicated and more time consuming, but it might work well.

I have a 454 that was trashed in december, and I am reluctant to re-use the old oil cooler no matter how much I flush it for fear of the "junk" in there. The coolers are pretty expensive so I wonder if arranging the oil hoses in this way would help after a complete flush of the cooler to let me sleep well while re-using the old cooler.

MnHowardCat

Whipple's have a automatic self adjusting belt tensioner on them for the blower belt.

29scarab I'LL send yo a PM
Don

Wobble

I know we have discussed this subject before.

This is how I see it, you trash a motor, stop up the filter, which may bypass, then you have trash in the cooler. I haven't seen a 100% way to clean a cooler yet. So the 100% safe way to do it right would be to replace cooler on rebuild? How many engine shops get to see anything but the motor?, they can clean it all they want, if the cooler and lines etc are not spotless.....

I do agree that the ideal way would be filter first, even then, with most coolers you are only seeing a 25* drop through it anyway. Teague claim 50* for their big offshore cooler, which is actually close to what I measured with mine.

vandeano

GET A NEW COOLER. It a small price considering what could happen. Trust me I have been there. Spent thousands on rebuild ust to do it all over again because I didn't want to spend a couple more hundred on a new cooler. The gamble just not worth it no matter how you route your oil filter. You might have a piece of metal that might find its way out hours after run time...you just dont know.

29scarab

Latest update:

Mechanic took pan off finally yesterday. Said he didn't find anything wrong with the bearings, so he's pulling the cam to check their bearings.

We'll wait and see. HE told me that there is a little metal in NEW engines, but I was not sure how to take that comment. I don't remember that being the case when i use to build them.

I also remember him saying that he made a hard pull on the engine and then it died instead of going back down to idle. Not sure about that either.

Hmmmmm.......

stinger390

Mine broke a rod. I'm not sure how, but I don't think it ran long enough to get metal circulated in the oil. It stopped rather abruptly with a big bang. The oil filter had nothing in it and the oil did not look metalic. Most of the oil seemed to blow out into the bilge anyway. My filter is set up ahead of the cooler. Should'nt the cooler be cleaned by the filter, and considered fairly safe after a good cleaning?

NoXXi0uS

I'm sure they will work something out for you.
I know the owner's. Well actually their daughters.