GOODT

it means that every peice of electronics on the boat is trash and that water got into the oil galleys.

tuffenuff355

thank you all for the input, i just spoke to my freind he says he got both motors running but the oil is very milky. told him to change the oil a few times, pull the plugs put marvel myst oil in cyl and spin motor over on each oil change, until oil is clean. rebuild carbs,alt and starter, should he repace distributers also? he got the boat for a steal so im sure he wont bother him even if he has to rebuild. hope fully the motors will be ok but im sure its going to lead to more problems eventually. thanks again

Edward R. Cozzi

Keep watching for broken valve springs. They don't like water in the oil.

cuda

Run it a couple minutes with half oil, and half diesel. It will cut the emulsified oil out, generally with one shot.

MOP

I have raised and saved many sinkers in over 30 years as a boat mech all in salt, several that were down well over a week and the mechanicals survived just fine. The rest of the boat and out board engines are another story!
I am an old mech and have little time on EFI/computer engines, I am talking carb & distributer engines the basic save the engine tactics are the same. Have everything you need gathered and ready "before" you raise the boat! It is better wet rather then drying and corroding, to do it right it will take most of the day. If you can't get an early start sometimes it is better to leave them down until the next morning or figure on a late night.
As soon as it is raised drained and refilled with the mix below. Pull the starter, alternator and carb and submerge in fresh water until you can get to them, put fresh stuff back on. You will need a good hot battery and a heavy set of cables, I use -0- wire jumper cables, a remote start box is also pretty important very good chance the boats wiring is damaged. Sometimes it is a good idea to isolate the engine from the boats wiring system so as not to lose time in getting it started. You may need ignition items try to have them handy. Disconnect the fuel coming from the boats tank they usually end up with water in them so use a clean "portable" tank. As soon as possible but before you hook up fuel, fill it with oil, pull the plugs and spin it over shoot WD40 or the like down the intake and into the cylinders. Pull the distributer cap for the time being blow it out and get the cap clean and dry, remove and properly clean and lube later after the engine has been run "clean". You will need a minimum of four oil changes maybe more, any off color is not acceptable! It is essential to use a non petroleum detergent in the oil for each but the last change. Only a non petroleum detergent has water emulsifiers that will help to get the water out, using Kero and other light oils do nothing to get the water out of the nooks and crannies. I use 1 cup of common dish detergent. I much prefer running the engine on a hose so I can then control the temp with the tap. I keep a close eye on the temp trying to keep it very close but not over 200 degrees, temperature and several oil changes are key to getting all the water out. In the worst case scenario drain and completely fill the crank case with Kero until the valve covers are full, inclusive of pouring through the intake removing and replacing plugs as the Kero flows out of each hole. Corrosion does not form in the absence of air, I do not recommend this but have had to do this a few times with good results.

I don't care what anyone has to say sinkers even real cheap are not a good deal, cabinetry and upholstery usually falls apart by the next season as most OEM's use plain steel fasteners and staples. Any electrical item will need to be replaced or rebuilt, all wiring that got submerged will need to be replaced, the water does wick into it. Also in salt consider salt is "Hygroscopic", while the boat is down any submerged wood cored panels are soaking in water believe me due to the salt content left behind they never dry thoroughly, even in fresh it will take a long time and may cause rot.

Tired of typing let the younger minds fill in anything I have missed!

Phil

Edward R. Cozzi

MOP:

Great post. Even an old fart like me can learn something new! Good ideas with the flushing out procedures.

I think you said it all with: "sinkers are not a good deal".

jpclear

MOP's post brought to mind something that I was told by a very smart marine guru many years ago; "If you can't get it drained and re-fired right away, leave it under water till you can. There will be less permanent damage if the air doesn't get to it before you do." --- Jer

tommymonza

A big problem with sinkers is transom and stringer rot years down the road.If there is any areas where water can get in it will because it is under pressure and getting it out is next to impossible.

rdoactive

Wow great info MOP.
What about the old method of draining and filling the whole engine with diesel?
Gary

MOP

To start with I am probably an even older fart!

rdoactive: I like your thinking diesel is cheaper then Kero, but we always had Kero handy. Loading them up with either is a stop gap in a pinch.

Ed: You brought up valve springs which is a very good point, not only in sinkers but also non sinker engines with white muck in the valve covers. The biggest majority of the broken springs I found were in raw water cooled engines, they just don't get up enough temp and if the PCV system is not doing its jobs the moisture stay in them. If you spot a lot of white up top it is a good idea to pull the valve covers ans check things out.

Phil