AAAARRRGH!! Milkshake AGAIN!!!!!!!
#31
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Re: AAAARRRGH!! Milkshake AGAIN!!!!!!!
Originally Posted by cuda
I do the same thing. I'll put in half oil, and half diesel, then run it for a couple minutes. It will cut all the emulsified oil that's all over the engine.
#32
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Re: AAAARRRGH!! Milkshake AGAIN!!!!!!!
Grog,
there will be a lot of different opinions out here. If the oil doesn't see 212F and you have poor crankcase ventilation you may have condensation problems.
I personally like to see 140F water and 220F oil.
there will be a lot of different opinions out here. If the oil doesn't see 212F and you have poor crankcase ventilation you may have condensation problems.
I personally like to see 140F water and 220F oil.
#33
Re: AAAARRRGH!! Milkshake AGAIN!!!!!!!
Very possibly, condensation. How much does the level rise on the dip stick ? If alot it's not condensation. Any good machine shop could pressure test. Some mobile marine mechanics also have pressure testing equipt. Was the block sleeved ? Also have seen cracks in cylinders low in the bore that only open and leak when motor warms up. BBB
#34
Re: AAAARRRGH!! Milkshake AGAIN!!!!!!!
Originally Posted by lowflyin
Interesting...I've never heard of that trick. Are you guys sure that won't take away too much lubrication to the bearings? I've been there and it's definately a mess to clean!
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Re: AAAARRRGH!! Milkshake AGAIN!!!!!!!
Originally Posted by Wobble
Grog,
there will be a lot of different opinions out here. If the oil doesn't see 212F and you have poor crankcase ventilation you may have condensation problems.
I personally like to see 140F water and 220F oil.
there will be a lot of different opinions out here. If the oil doesn't see 212F and you have poor crankcase ventilation you may have condensation problems.
I personally like to see 140F water and 220F oil.
I agree with this answer, I had the same milking problem with the oil, put in a thermostat or flow restrictor on the the water. Arizona Speed sells 120 thermostats for this reason. Also, if you have a big 3" oil cooler with without a oil thermostat this will cause the same effect.
Is the oil in the pan milky white? if so, you will need all new bearings has they have been whipped and will go away. Condensate issues do not change the oil in the pan color unless it done for a long period of town. If the oil turns white after a quick blast, you have an intake or head gasket leak.
EITHER way, a rebuild is in your future.
Personally, I prefer the Mr Gasket intakes. Fel Pro leak to often.
#36
Re: AAAARRRGH!! Milkshake AGAIN!!!!!!!
Sounds like condensation - just a little water will make it look bad. RacinFever on this board is a master at fixing these types of probems - PM him..
#37
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Re: AAAARRRGH!! Milkshake AGAIN!!!!!!!
I hope that you guys that were helping me with this are still out there.
I pulled the exhaust mainfolds and found about 1/8 cup of water in the #8 exhaust port (in the manifold side). I also noticed that the when I peered into the exhaust ports of the heads with a flashlight, the valves on #4, #6, and #8 were a tan color compared to a white/grayish color on the other cylinders. My plugs all looked normal (or at least the same as each other).
I pulled the valve covers and found what I expected, lots of yellow snot (for lack of a better term). I dumped about 2 gal of diesel on top of the heads and let it wash into the pan (old oil had already been drained). After letting that soak for a while, I pulled the drain plug. The diesel fuel came out yellow. No surprise.
I pulled the intake manifold and WHAT A MESS!!!!!! Of course, any evidence of a manifold water leak was destroyed when I seperated the intake because the gasket ripped apart.
Here is what I am struggling with. If the water is coming in from the exhaust (reversion, riser gasket, manifold crack, etc..), how does it get to the oil pan? Does it have to leak past the piston rings when the motor is off? It seems like if the motor is running and this happens, the water would just get forced back into the exhaust as steam.
I pulled the exhaust mainfolds and found about 1/8 cup of water in the #8 exhaust port (in the manifold side). I also noticed that the when I peered into the exhaust ports of the heads with a flashlight, the valves on #4, #6, and #8 were a tan color compared to a white/grayish color on the other cylinders. My plugs all looked normal (or at least the same as each other).
I pulled the valve covers and found what I expected, lots of yellow snot (for lack of a better term). I dumped about 2 gal of diesel on top of the heads and let it wash into the pan (old oil had already been drained). After letting that soak for a while, I pulled the drain plug. The diesel fuel came out yellow. No surprise.
I pulled the intake manifold and WHAT A MESS!!!!!! Of course, any evidence of a manifold water leak was destroyed when I seperated the intake because the gasket ripped apart.
Here is what I am struggling with. If the water is coming in from the exhaust (reversion, riser gasket, manifold crack, etc..), how does it get to the oil pan? Does it have to leak past the piston rings when the motor is off? It seems like if the motor is running and this happens, the water would just get forced back into the exhaust as steam.
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Re: AAAARRRGH!! Milkshake AGAIN!!!!!!!
your leaking past the rings theory is on the money, thats how it happens!!!!!
no need to look farther in the motor now that you know its on the exaust side
now all you need to know is what is causing it on the exaust side......
no need to look farther in the motor now that you know its on the exaust side
now all you need to know is what is causing it on the exaust side......
#40
Re: AAAARRRGH!! Milkshake AGAIN!!!!!!!
Originally Posted by Breathe Later
Heads shaved, block deck shaved? You may have incorrect geometry causing poor intake to head sealing. I've seen this happen before.