GOODT

wont leave water in exaust manifold !!!!!!!

cig1988

Looks like you're going to pressure test. Do you have an automotive type radiator pressure tester? The way I do this is actually simple. There is an adaptor you can find on any good tool truck that adapts from the "cap" end to a hose end with different size rubber steps with a threaded end to expand the rubber steps. Plug one side of the exhaust manifold & apply pressure on the other end. You may be able to simply clamps a water hose & apply pressure that way.

Not too sure on the imco set up as far as the risers can be pressure tested. I've had a problem with a merlin casting that drove me nuts. Had a defective casting in the exhaust port with a pin hole. If you need me to explain more in detail pm/email your ph# & I'll walk you through it.
Stan

JIMG

it could be a casting problem (rotted head) in the exhaust port. or it could be like GOODT said & be a bad exhaust manifold. I would pull the manilfold off and test it and pressure test the block with it off. you will know for sure soon enough.

GOODT

never said it was exaust manifold just said it was that side could be ....valve seat, manifold, riser, reversion...ect

no matter which it is the way to prevent it in the future is...

flush flush flush

CcanDo

The pressure tester CIG1988 speaks of is an excellent tool.One model is a pressure pump with a pressure gage which displays the pressure installed.It is considered good maintenance to block off any open ports,install 35 to 40 lbs. pressure and leave it over night.The next day you will see if the pressure has dropped,indicating a leak.However,before being alarmed,pour some ivory liquid soap and water in a spray bottle and spray your block fittings,intake manifold,heads,and etc.In the event of an external leak the soapy water will bubble as the installed pressure escapes.The tool can also be fitted to various individual engine components to isolate an internal leak.

blue thunder

Couple thoughts as I have been here often:

Keep flushing the engine with diesel or kerosine until it drains clear. Then refill once more and run the oil pump with a priming tool. Do this with the oil filter on. Then you can remove the oil filter and evacuate the fluid by running the pump again, fuel will come out the filter. You need to do this to get the goo out of the lines and passages.

This definately sounds like reversion, pretty bad at that due to you already running a pcv valve. What are the specs on the cam? Did you degree it in upon install? What rpm were you allowing the engine to idle at? The big gulp of reversion usually happens at shut down of the engine, so peering up the exhaust pipes will show wetness if reverting.

I ultimately had to go to dry exhaust to cure my problem. PCV helped, but not completly.

BT

GOODT

easy way very little tools required but no matter how you do it you will need a blockoff plate for where the riser bolts on this can be made from alunm,steel, or very thick plastic and can use a gasket as a template...

block off all openings then attach garden hose to the bottom fitting and turn on house water press is usually about 20-25 lbs which is plenty look for leaks if you dont see any turn press down some and let sit this is more then enough to find your problem if it is a manifold!!!!!!!!

formula31

From an earlier post.

Josh -
I noticed a little on the dipstick after the first few runs immediately after the SC install and it kept getting worse and worse each trip to the lake. The builder did leak down tests and water pressure testing on the block to 30psi and found nothing. At the time, my water pressure was about 16 psi at wot. The builder kept blaming it on condensation but I live in a very dry climate and the milky oil was evident after one hard run. The oil plug test was the only way to convince him that this was not condensation. Evidentally, it needed heat expansion and/or added compression from the blower to show it's ugly head.
Of course, to shave the deck of the block I needed to remove and disassemble the whole engine. Everything seems good now.

I reeeeeally hope your deal is an easy fix and not like mine.

Greg

Panther

thats how I do it. I also drill and tap a 1/4 " scew in the plate that I use to purge the air.

GOODT

dont usually care about air because if theres a leak it will come out if no leak then I dont care at all if air is in it or not

basicly air doesnt matter.. but bleeding it doesnt hurt either