Update-pulled motor,mounted box,tightened stellings transom plate to 50 ft lbs evenly with torque wrench (without looking at merc stq spec),rear mounts on plate sucked in 1/2 inch to where bell housing mounts couldn't possibly lineup
(give me the dumbazz award). Took plate back off,stayed sucked in 1/2 inch,threw it in scrap aluminum pile!! Took stock bravo transom plate,cut center out of it so driveshaft can pass through it,cut cable steering ear off it,blended all edges I cut then painted it (doesn't look too hacked up). Re-installed the box with modified stock plate,tightened slooowly with tq wrench in 5 ft lb increments with 12 inch verniers between bell housing mounts,started to suck in as soon as I went past 25 ft lbs,backed off and left at 25 ft lbs,the book doesn't lie when they say 25 ft lbs!!!! Motor is sitting in boat on mounts now,checked crank to flange in box angle,was just over 4 degrees. Put 2 .100 thick (total of .200 inch) washers between factory fiber washers and curly cue springs.I now have exactly 3 degrees of driveshaft angle,this is with the box mounted in center holes (1 inch up),not going to try to get it any better because the .200 above stock is most I will be able to fight with my tailpipes with some slight grinding in transom holes. Checked crank angle to driveshaft flange angle,dead on parralell without raising or lowering front mounts on engine
!!Locking motor down,going to double check angles then start putting boat back together. Might wait to put in stainless gimbal ring as I have read it is a real biotch to make it fit. Driveshaft will be 11 3/4's when installed,compressed its 11 1/4 and pulled out to max length its almost 13 so no trimming or machinig required. I'll post a thread on whole thing when I'm done with pics and results for anyone else who decides to do this at home,Smitty
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