fastedy

Looks like if I can keep it between 12.5:1 and 13.5:1 I'm good, I don't see that this monitors not accurate it just dosn't span as many numbers? please correct me if I'm wrong, I don't mine buying another meter now that I have the bung installed. I will get pictures today.

Vinny P

I dont claim to be an expert on this subject, but thats the way I read it as well. Its accurate just doesnt have as wide a range.

stevesxm

this is a very very easy trap to fall into.... the desperate search for a real quantifiable answer for a change instead of just guesswork....and it WILL work... just not the way you think...

first of all you need to realize that that instrument you just installed is not anything other than a "poloroid camera" that just takes a snapshot of the lambda at THAT moment in time at THAT location.... sort of like trying to tell what the gulf of mexico is doing from 30 miles up the missisipi (sp) river...

is it possible ? sure... with enough data gathering.... the correct way to use this instrument is to have it in place on the dyno when you run the motor and plot the curve of those numbers at the various rpms where the EGTs are where you want them. that way you have a direct correlation between the number that you REALLY care about... the egt.... vs what your cheap, commerical grade oxygen sensor is reading somewhere else in the system. it doesn't matter really what that instrument actually says for a number... it is not a scientific grade piece and ill bet if you bought three of them from summit and put them on one after another you would get three dif answers but as i said, that doesn't really matter as LONG as you calibrate it to something that IS real on YOUR motor in a KNOWN circumstance....

in my experience, the lambda sensors were not an effective way to do anything.... the response was so slow that it was always way too late to know anything before it was REALLY too late... and as a tuning tool, the resolution was such that there was no real way to know if small changes were beneficial or not... and i don't know about you but at WOT it is really hard for me to try to watch some instrument changing and flickering on my dashboard....

i always had to use data recording of the egts ( on the cars) to know what was really happening... something the average boater is not likely to do... in your case, as long as you "calibrate " your system to some known standard
(your motor, on a dyno w/ egts) youll be fine and the info itgives you will be helpful... w/out that i think the info its telling you is only a little better than reading the plugs or sniffing the tail pipe. ESPECIALLY in a blower motor... and i certainly wouldn't go making some big change on a motor that seems to run ok based solely on the info that gage is telling me w/ out some real reliable and repeatable baseline.

fastedy

Sorry for taking so long.

TwinTurboStroker

That's a narrowband sensor 0 - 1v, it will provide some data; but beware that $129 unit is notorious for causing catostrophic engine failures.

fastedy

What are you saying, It's leaner than the meter reads? What should I switch to, I just want something I can read to set the jets then remove it.
Some kind of improvement over plug reading without pulling the engine
to put on a dyno.

nordic95

Hey guys here is a link to the way I installed my O2 sensor this spring.I am also using the innovate wide band system and love it.These manifolds are also for sale now if any one is looking for an upgrade from stock 502 manifolds.



http://www.offshoreonly.com/forums/s...sensor+install


Nordic95

SB

iTrader: (1)

Stevesxm and twinturbostroker are correct - little can be gained from use of these 02 sensors.

Many of us used them when that was the only thing available at the time, but everyone can attest that little data was used for it.

Anyway - do not tune from one exclusively. Could get yo into trouble quickly.

Widebands, of course, are much more accurate and are relatively cheap now. $300-$400.

As with anything you'll use to tune an engine - read,read,read about it and then gain a touch of experience with them before relying on it 100%.

fastedy

Ok, following the advise above, I sent back the Edelbrock O2, and purchased the Innovate with the RPM Converter, a much more technical piece of machinery. Tested today, engine ran 12.4:1 to 12.9:1 from Idle to WOT, down loaded info to verify. Then I dropped 2 jet sizes front and rear, meter showed a slighter leaner mixture of 13.5:1 to 13.9:1, also downloaded to verify, had a 1 or 2 second spike to 14.2 during a WOT run of 3 minutes. I picked up 2mph and around 200 rpm. Looks like I'm still in a safe range what do you experts think. Not trying to get myself in trouble just trying to get the best of what I have.

Eddie

cobra marty

Great test and results. Best idea to send back the Edelbrock unit and get the Innovative unit. Next time out try a run where you hold the throttle at 2000 rpm and record the speed and the A/F ratio and repeat for each 500 rpm and especially at your cruise rpm and then WOT. If you had EFI you could lean out your cruise rpm A/F ratio for economy and then run it richer everywhere else.
Your bung mounted on the bottom of the tailpipe I would be a little worried about water running/reversion on the sensor. I had CMI weld mine on the elbow facing forward about 45 degree up.