Crazyhorse

Hey, I'm still looking at the grass from the green side, although one of these days my luck with surgeries is gonna run out. Had my one remaining real knee worked on Thursday before last. I'm running out of cartilege.

Big Block Billy

Too much grind and the nitriding and set rockwell hardness of the crank is gone. It's almost like case hardening. Cut and polish heavily, after that and all bets are off... maybe there are a few people who have thought otherwise, and found out the hard way, lets learn from them ...not by repeating their bull headed mistakes... BBB

blue thunder

Tryme, taper in a bearing is this: The shell halves are actually thinner towards the rod bolts. This is to allow a margin so oil film is not wiped away due to the rod cap flexing at high rpm. The bearing is actually thicker on H bearings in the middle than on the ends where the tangs are. If you build an engine with the clearances (rod bearings) on the low side of the clearance band and don't have bearings like this, your oil film can be scraped away, and well, you know what comes next.

Crazyhorse, hang in there. I never had knee surgery but know many that have. Very tough.

BT

Crazyhorse

Thanks BT. This is actually the best surgery I've had so far.
Clevite "P" bearings have more eccentricity than the "H" bearings, according to their catalog information. They "P" bearings are for extremely high rpm applications that result in the maximum amount of big-end flex. Again, that is the information in their bearing catalog.
The "H" bearing does have the increased chamfer to allow a .125 radius on the crank pin. Clevite also offers a bearing with the same characteristics as the "H" without the chamfer but my supplier does not stock them.

TRYME

I CAN'T DOWNLOAD PICS I HAVE
BUT EMAIL ME AT [email protected]
I WILL SEND THEM TO YOU
MAYBE YOU CAN GET THEM POSTED?

GNJ

I have'nt seen the pics, but how about the rod bolts, where they tested or replaced?
I had two different motors in different applications that were rebuilt and came back from a machine shop. After about 10 -12 hrs use, one started to pound out the rod bearings because the rod bolts would not hold a torque.
The other motor was not a marine application and it took longer to manifest the problem, but it turned out to be the same issue. Costly in time and money but lesson learned.
ARP bolts from now on for me.

TRYME

EVRYTIME IT WAS REBUILT HE INSISTED ON A NEW COOLER
EXCEPT WHEN I TOLD HIM THE LAST TIME THAT HE'S GOING TO BUY ONE. THEN IT WAS I'LL GET IT CLEANED 6 HRS OF RUNNING SOLVENT THRU IT....SO NOW HE'S DOING IT AGAIN
IT REALLY DOESN'T MAKE SINCE TO TURN CRANK COST 105
BUT PITTSBURG CRANK WILL SELL YOU A REMAN CRANK FOR 250 WITH BEARINGS. THIS TIME HE WANTS TO PUT IT ON HIS DYNO FIRST THEN RUN IT AT 5500 THEN CHECK BEARING BEFORE I INSTAL IT IN BOAT.
I FIGURE IF HE DOESN'T BREAK THE CRANK AND THROW A ROD OUT THE BLOCK...MAYBE I COULD GO BOAT NEXT SEASON.

Big Block Billy

I had knee surgery and can say IT SUCKS, don't have it done unless you really need it. Although not in constant pain anymore, My Knee constantly pops and cracks and is not fun to deal with... BBB

mark30h

Has the oil cooler been replaced? I bought a 26 scarab with a 454 mag in a box, the previous owner rebuilt the engine 3x because of bearings, within 8 hours of each rebuild. the oil cooler was flushed each time. The machine shop had cleaned the cooler before we got it as well. When we got it, we flushed the cooler again, and got metal. Replaced it, and have had no trouble in over 30 hrs of use this season.

1BIGJIM

iTrader: (1)

Change the oil coolers and all the hoses.
If you do a search on previous posts, you will find an oil cooler I cut open after it had been flushed

YOU CAN NEVER GET ALL THE PARTICLES OUT.

Why risk an engine for a couple of hundred of dollers.