Transom leak, exhaust block off plate?
#21
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Re: Transom leak, exhaust block off plate?
Bringing this back to the top since I've just had a chance to put it in the water and have a good look. Looks like water is coming in from high up in the transom assembly, most likely from the steering arm/bearing/seal/whatever is in there. Since there's a gap between the inner/outer pieces, I guess I only noticed where it was finally coming out,
Bummer for me is this means water has been getting into the transom
Another bummer is that I wasn't planning to have to pull the transoms apart. I guess it's a good time to do some service while I'm in there. I'll be ordering a Merc service manual specifically for the Bravo (manual #11?) unless I can find the info elsewhere.
Please, anyone feel free to throw some tips/suggestions at me.
Bummer for me is this means water has been getting into the transom
Another bummer is that I wasn't planning to have to pull the transoms apart. I guess it's a good time to do some service while I'm in there. I'll be ordering a Merc service manual specifically for the Bravo (manual #11?) unless I can find the info elsewhere.
Please, anyone feel free to throw some tips/suggestions at me.
#22
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Re: Transom leak, exhaust block off plate?
I'm not sure if your yr is like this, but early bravos used anode bolts in the bottom of the transom plate. They corrode away as designed and can start to flow a pretty good amount of water. Make sure you put a wrench on these to see if they are strong. If not they will break off with little force.
BT
BT
#24
Re: Transom leak, exhaust block off plate?
Sounds likely the upper pivot pin has rusted and that seal is now bad. Also the seal bore corrodes and makes that seal itself worthless. The pivot pin is just steel, not even SS. Throw that in a salt water enviroment.
#26
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Re: Transom leak, exhaust block off plate?
The only thing that I can think of that high up is the seal on the steering pin (part name??). I replaced mine, it is not a pleasant job. If you do it on the boat, you have to drill BIG holes on the side of the transom assembly to get at the nut and tap it afterwards to put plugs in there. Mercruiser sells a kit for the plugs. Otherwise you need to pull the transom assembly off of the boat, which is how I did mine. In any case, the gimbal ring needs to be pulled to do it.
Rene
Rene
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I've seen that parts kit that includes everything to do the job. Not sure which would be better down the road, pulling the whole assembly or just trying to use that kit.
Just when everything seemed to be working fine...
Just when everything seemed to be working fine...
#28
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Agree with cig, don't do a half azz job just to save time or money. Leaks in the transom area lead to rotten transoms, very expensive fix. Also don't forget the relief holes on the side of the gimbal hsg. Just blocking off the bellows area is not enough. Double check the other bellows also if they haven't been replaced in a few years they will need it.
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don't worry, won't do a half a$$ job since those typically have to be done more than once
I've been doing some reading on the swivel shaft. Sounds like these things rusting out and taking the seal with it is a common problem. Looks like I'll be sending some stuff off to JRMarine/Ron Bender.
Thanks everyone for the help.
I've been doing some reading on the swivel shaft. Sounds like these things rusting out and taking the seal with it is a common problem. Looks like I'll be sending some stuff off to JRMarine/Ron Bender.
Thanks everyone for the help.
#30
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You need to check the gimbal housing where the water inlet hose is held in with the plastic wedge. Over time the alum corrodes & will constrict that plastic wedge reducing water flow to your sea pump. Very poor design on Merc's part. You can actually check while its still on the boat. Remove the 2 bolts holding on what looks like a small t-stat housing. Take a 3/8 deep well socket 1/4 drive & should pass thru.