Outdrive1

I had a motor built and last about five hours before coming apart. My builder says it's because my oil lines were inadequate. I'm running 10an everywhere, from the billet oil adapter from CP, to the billet remote oil filter from CP to the biggest oil cooler Cp sells. This dirt bag is trying to get out of responsibility for the pile of junk he took 6 months to build that didn't even make one trip to the lake. The motor is a 548 with a 10/71 making supposedly between 8 and 9 hundred horse power. (this guy has no dyno so I'll never know what it really makes for power).........It's funny how many people I've met now that have been ripped off by this clown. Where were they when this douchebag was telling me what a great engine builder he was???????????

articfriends

iTrader: (1)

Was the oil cooler flushed from whatever happened last time? Smitty

Outdrive1

Brand new everything. Every piece of hardware and the lines were brand spankin new. The pan was full of metal shavings. This guy said the noise was in the valve train, so he supposedly adjusted the valves and told me it was ok to run it again. When I fired it up on the hose after leaving, you could tell the noise hadn't gone away. So we popped the valve covers to find that the valves varied in adjustment from 20 to 40 thousands. He had lied about the adjustment to get me to go out and finish the motor off. He also wrote all over the invoice that having inadequate lines for cooling, fuel and oiling will cause the motor the fail. Obviously trying to find excuses for the junk he built. He knew he didn't adjust the valves, and any builder should have known a rod knock. He wanted to give some excuses and have it leave his shop (back yard, he doesn't have a real shop) so he could blame some one else. This guy is a total crook.
The water lines are standard 1 1/4 with an off shore pickup, KPM sea strainer (brand new), into the sea pump, through the cooler, into the cross-over.
Oil lines are 10an from the adapter, to the remote filter, into the cooler and back to the block. I even ran the oil the opposite direction as the water for better cooling.
Fuel is 8 an from both tanks to the filter, 8 an to the pump (mounted below the tanks), 8 an to the bypass regulator, 8 an return lines, 6 an to each carb.
His latest is that it must be the improper size oil lines that caused the motor to fail. I just want to know if 10 an is adequate. I called CP and a rigger that worked at Eliminator and they both said 10 should be fine for that hp.

mrhorsepower1

#10 AN oil lines will get the job done. 12 AN is better if the rest of the oiling system is correct. There are alot of factors and attention that need to be addressed when it comes to a very good oil system. Type of oil pan, oil capacity, type of fittings, elbows, type of pump (high volume) we do alot of tricks in these areas. If you need some direction please feel free to call me at the shop (216) 398-8500. Thanks.

Dean Gellner
Gellner Engineering Marine Power

betitbig

Sounds like you should have driven an hour and a half south...

ITLLFLI

He could have installed the chamfered bearings backwards!

Pwrbt33

iTrader: (2)

Dean has spoken! there is no need for me to respond!

John

Outdrive1

Everybody makes mistakes, the difference is that people with integrity stand behind their work. P-Whipple, your right, Peto would have been day and night better............

BillK

bk,

Have you taken it out and apart yet to see what actually failed ? Not very fair to start bashing somebody without making sure of the cause of failure first

Just my opinion,

Bill Koustenis
Advanced Automotive Machine
Waldorf Md

monstaaa

-10 will work. but -12 is better