Quote:
Originally Posted by articfriends
Was the oil cooler flushed from whatever happened last time? Smitty
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Brand new everything. Every piece of hardware and the lines were brand spankin new. The pan was full of metal shavings. This guy said the noise was in the valve train, so he supposedly adjusted the valves and told me it was ok to run it again. When I fired it up on the hose after leaving, you could tell the noise hadn't gone away. So we popped the valve covers to find that the valves varied in adjustment from 20 to 40 thousands. He had lied about the adjustment to get me to go out and finish the motor off. He also wrote all over the invoice that having inadequate lines for cooling, fuel and oiling will cause the motor the fail. Obviously trying to find excuses for the junk he built. He knew he didn't adjust the valves, and any builder should have known a rod knock. He wanted to give some excuses and have it leave his shop (back yard, he doesn't have a real shop) so he could blame some one else. This guy is a total crook.
The water lines are standard 1 1/4 with an off shore pickup, KPM sea strainer (brand new), into the sea pump, through the cooler, into the cross-over.
Oil lines are 10an from the adapter, to the remote filter, into the cooler and back to the block. I even ran the oil the opposite direction as the water for better cooling.
Fuel is 8 an from both tanks to the filter, 8 an to the pump (mounted below the tanks), 8 an to the bypass regulator, 8 an return lines, 6 an to each carb.
His latest is that it must be the improper size oil lines that caused the motor to fail. I just want to know if 10 an is adequate. I called CP and a rigger that worked at Eliminator and they both said 10 should be fine for that hp.