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Old 12-24-2007, 01:20 PM
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Here is a pic of my lifter wheels after 20hrs.
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Old 12-24-2007, 01:28 PM
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Almost appears as though the cam lobe went first, then the wheel took the debris.

Did you say they were rebuilding with a new improved wheel?

Lastly, I had to slot the tappet body from the waist up to the oiling hole to get enough oil up top for cooling but that may be a FORD thing I don't know.

Last edited by 2112; 12-24-2007 at 02:16 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 12-24-2007, 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Mr Gadgets
Here is a pic of my lifter wheels after 20hrs.
I agree 2112, it looks like metal transfer from camshaft
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Old 12-24-2007, 04:30 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by mikes280
it depends on the cam and how aggressive the ramp on the lobe is but i usually tighten them down about .005 to .007
Same here... Manufacturer says 0.20... I go 0.14...

Mike, with an engine that has "steel" heads do you think it's ok to lash the valves at say .15 - .16 cold instead of heating up the engine first?

I never set it cold so I'm curious what one can get away with??
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Old 12-24-2007, 06:34 PM
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Panther made me think of something to add here. As I said before, I am running Red Zones w/ EZ roll wheels. However, my cam is not as aggressive as Dicks, neither is the weight of my valve train components. I am running a standard deck height block, .080" wall pushrods, non bushed lifter bores, .842" lifters, Isky tool steel springs, 200# on the seat, 550# over the nose and a tight lash cam. Maybe thats the difference? The tight lash? Dont know for sure.. I set the lash @ .008" Last season, I was running Comp Pro Magnum rockers that required the occasional adjustment. I had put 55 hours on that set up. I pulled the lifters , they look like new. This winter, I switched to T&D shaft rockers. Hopefully, they will only make the valve train better.
I dont mean to suggest that the lash has anything to do with this, but what is the difference between a tight lash and standard lash cam? The rockwell? The lobe profiles?

Last edited by Vinny P; 12-24-2007 at 07:12 PM.
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Old 12-24-2007, 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by 2112
Wait, I just re-read post. Are you saying .005-.007 tighter than mfg's recommendation or to .005-.007 lash?
.005 to .007 tighter then you are now
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Old 12-24-2007, 09:54 PM
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Ben,
At the time I bought the EZ wheels they had not had any failures with them. I dont care for the needle bearings, so I went with them. But the bearings didnt fail in this case.. It may have been the cam. With the Schubeck ceramic wheels which are very smooth and flat, the cam survived. But with the steel wheels I may have found a weak spot in the hardness of the lobe??

2112,
Isky was developing the EZ wheel with a drag racer, Jim Ottie?, I believe they ran spring pressures over 1000 psi. At the time I got my set, those bearings were not available. So upon inspection by Isky they did replace the wheels and axles and buffed the lifter bodies.
What do you mean by slotting from the waist to the oil hole?
I am also curious as to what Mike meant by the tighening of the lash.. Did he run them .005-7 tighter than recommended? Let us know what you meant Mike..

Panther, are u running steel or Aluminum heads?

Thanks.. guys you have me thinking instead of worrying..
Dick
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Old 12-24-2007, 10:05 PM
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Mike,
Are you running steel or Aluminum heads? Are you using that figure, cold or hot?
Just how aggessive is your cam if I may ask. You can pm me with specs if you dont want to publish.
My cam was .714" .714" 275*/ 278* 112* lobe sep. I am running a .903" lifter with .850" wheel. I set the lash cold with Aluminum heads at .021", cold. Looking for .025" hot. Maybe I should have gone for .016 or tighter, cold or maybe even tighter?

Dick

Thanks
Dick
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Old 12-24-2007, 10:16 PM
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Dick;

Our cams are extremely close and I set my lash same as you. I am going tighter.

Here is a pic of two Crane tappets, on the left, a slot cut by hand by my first engine builder 10 years ago, on the right cut by crane themselves and looks like Isky is doing it too by the pics on their website.
Brings a lot more oil up to cool the valve train but I did have to add drainback lines to get it back to the sump.
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Old 12-24-2007, 11:21 PM
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Ok thanks 2112.. I see what u mean now..
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