Bravo 1 Pulls Right Coming Off Plane...
07-31-2007, 10:20 AM
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Bravo 1 Pulls Right Coming Off Plane...
I remember reading about this problem but can't find it using the search.
When coming off plane, my baja h2x with 454 mpi bravo 1, pulls to the right , only started this season.
I remember seeing a post about this, and what to check and fix.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
RYAN JOHANSEN
When coming off plane, my baja h2x with 454 mpi bravo 1, pulls to the right , only started this season.
I remember seeing a post about this, and what to check and fix.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
RYAN JOHANSEN
07-31-2007, 10:24 AM
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I remember reading about this problem but can't find it using the search.
When coming off plane, my baja h2x with 454 mpi bravo 1, pulls to the right , only started this season.
I remember seeing a post about this, and what to check and fix.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
RYAN JOHANSEN
When coming off plane, my baja h2x with 454 mpi bravo 1, pulls to the right , only started this season.
I remember seeing a post about this, and what to check and fix.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
RYAN JOHANSEN
07-31-2007, 01:08 PM
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In my opinion from gut instinct it's your gimbal mounts (probably upper to cause side to side) wearing causing slop in the drive.
Out of the water grab your drive and shake up and down (If sloppy you need new lower bushings).
Now shake it from side to side. That slop is what's causing the turn as the tension comes off the drive and it flops right due to a right spinning prop. (worn upper gimbal swivel pin slot).
To help take some of that slop out, on your outdrive there's two locknuts on a stainless plate at the very top of your gimbal. Those are your upper gimbal ring bolts that help squeeze the gimbal ring around a square pin (swivel shaft) that has the steering lever attached at the top (out of view). Hence that's how you steer. Over time that square hole area loosens up and if not caught can cause excessive wearing creating a slop situation. On "non-hydraulic" steering boats you should re-torque those once per year. Now re-read that last sentence.
Take and loosen those lock nuts out first, then re-torque slowly to 55 foot pounds each. If there's a whole ot of slop, you might have to go another click or two, but not too far.
If in fact it's just too rounded out (could cause a sudden yaw in the boat and potentially throw someone eithe tot the floor, or all the way out.
If in fact it's worn too bad, there is a cheaper alternative to purchasing a brand new gimbal ring. Go to this website for info and good luck.
Finally if in fact that's not it, you should re-torque anyway. Tell all your frineds too with a non-hydraulic setup.
http://www.jrmarine.com/products/gimbal_repair.htm
Out of the water grab your drive and shake up and down (If sloppy you need new lower bushings).
Now shake it from side to side. That slop is what's causing the turn as the tension comes off the drive and it flops right due to a right spinning prop. (worn upper gimbal swivel pin slot).
To help take some of that slop out, on your outdrive there's two locknuts on a stainless plate at the very top of your gimbal. Those are your upper gimbal ring bolts that help squeeze the gimbal ring around a square pin (swivel shaft) that has the steering lever attached at the top (out of view). Hence that's how you steer. Over time that square hole area loosens up and if not caught can cause excessive wearing creating a slop situation. On "non-hydraulic" steering boats you should re-torque those once per year. Now re-read that last sentence.
Take and loosen those lock nuts out first, then re-torque slowly to 55 foot pounds each. If there's a whole ot of slop, you might have to go another click or two, but not too far.
If in fact it's just too rounded out (could cause a sudden yaw in the boat and potentially throw someone eithe tot the floor, or all the way out.
If in fact it's worn too bad, there is a cheaper alternative to purchasing a brand new gimbal ring. Go to this website for info and good luck.
Finally if in fact that's not it, you should re-torque anyway. Tell all your frineds too with a non-hydraulic setup.
http://www.jrmarine.com/products/gimbal_repair.htm
Last edited by Reckless32; 07-31-2007 at 01:12 PM.
07-31-2007, 01:57 PM
#4
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In my opinion from gut instinct it's your gimbal mounts (probably upper to cause side to side) wearing causing slop in the drive.
Out of the water grab your drive and shake up and down (If sloppy you need new lower bushings).
Now shake it from side to side. That slop is what's causing the turn as the tension comes off the drive and it flops right due to a right spinning prop. (worn upper gimbal swivel pin slot).
To help take some of that slop out, on your outdrive there's two locknuts on a stainless plate at the very top of your gimbal. Those are your upper gimbal ring bolts that help squeeze the gimbal ring around a square pin (swivel shaft) that has the steering lever attached at the top (out of view). Hence that's how you steer. Over time that square hole area loosens up and if not caught can cause excessive wearing creating a slop situation. On "non-hydraulic" steering boats you should re-torque those once per year. Now re-read that last sentence.
Take and loosen those lock nuts out first, then re-torque slowly to 55 foot pounds each. If there's a whole ot of slop, you might have to go another click or two, but not too far.
If in fact it's just too rounded out (could cause a sudden yaw in the boat and potentially throw someone eithe tot the floor, or all the way out.
If in fact it's worn too bad, there is a cheaper alternative to purchasing a brand new gimbal ring. Go to this website for info and good luck.
Finally if in fact that's not it, you should re-torque anyway. Tell all your frineds too with a non-hydraulic setup.
http://www.jrmarine.com/products/gimbal_repair.htm
Out of the water grab your drive and shake up and down (If sloppy you need new lower bushings).
Now shake it from side to side. That slop is what's causing the turn as the tension comes off the drive and it flops right due to a right spinning prop. (worn upper gimbal swivel pin slot).
To help take some of that slop out, on your outdrive there's two locknuts on a stainless plate at the very top of your gimbal. Those are your upper gimbal ring bolts that help squeeze the gimbal ring around a square pin (swivel shaft) that has the steering lever attached at the top (out of view). Hence that's how you steer. Over time that square hole area loosens up and if not caught can cause excessive wearing creating a slop situation. On "non-hydraulic" steering boats you should re-torque those once per year. Now re-read that last sentence.
Take and loosen those lock nuts out first, then re-torque slowly to 55 foot pounds each. If there's a whole ot of slop, you might have to go another click or two, but not too far.
If in fact it's just too rounded out (could cause a sudden yaw in the boat and potentially throw someone eithe tot the floor, or all the way out.
If in fact it's worn too bad, there is a cheaper alternative to purchasing a brand new gimbal ring. Go to this website for info and good luck.
Finally if in fact that's not it, you should re-torque anyway. Tell all your frineds too with a non-hydraulic setup.
http://www.jrmarine.com/products/gimbal_repair.htm
