US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

Can an on board 10 amp battery charger keep up with 2 amps. JL Audio 250W mono & 300W 4 channel.

I don't think the amps are over heating because of where they are located, plenty of fresh air. I'm thinking the amps pull the battery down and the charger isn't large enough to keep up, cutting the stereo(or amps) in and out after a couple hrs of hard jamming. I didn't think to check the indicator lights on the amps.

Does that sound likely, or is 10 amps enough to power 2 amps and the head unit?

Joe92GT

I'd say you are pulling the batteries down. I would measure the current draw to see if you have access to a current clamp.

I take it your connected to a 120v source while playing the music, why not add an inverter circuit and power the stuff right off shore power?

OldEliminator

Check the fuses in your amps, and add them together. This will tell you within 90% of what your amps can pull at full power. I gaurantee that they pull more than 10 amps even at an idle. You need at least a 50 amp 110 volt based power supply, they are what is used for competition cars and Hi Fi shop sound systems. In my boat I have 2 Rockford 400W amps an I run 3 dedicated batterys for them, with a 130 amp alternator. Good Luck.

ckentling

The IOTA chargers are the best chargers I have found for recharging stereo batteries. I have a 75 amp on my 4 stereo batteries and they are a lot more happy than when they used to be on the gues 30 amp (10x3)

they are a "smart" charger and really take care of the batteries

speedreeder

To answer your question YES a good 10 amp charger will keep up with those amps, IF you have the proper size wiring to the amps . POWER AND GROUND. I ran 900 on a 10 amp just fine, But found out last weekend the 10 amp won't keep up with the new system.. Also you may want to check your batteries with a good tester to make sure one did not go bad....What size batteries do you run?

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

Wiring is 4/0 AWG both power and ground to each amp separately, approx 4' runs. So wiring is good. In line fuses are 30 & 40 amp per JL's recommendations. Battery is a 1000CCA dual purpose, new this spring. Not saying it can't be weak. Yes, plugged into shore power while in the slip. Gotta run the A/C.

Don't want to go the invertor route if just a larger charger will do.

Thinking about stepping up to a 'Distributed On-Demand' 10/10 20 amp charger this winter. Current one is a regular 5/5 10 amp, but the leads are hooked to together to supply the house battery with the full 10 amps. Nothing going to the other starting battery as that only starts the 2nd motor and is not an issue.

Can a Distributed on-Demand 3 bank charger be used with just 2 batteries ( 3 leads not hooked up) in case I add a 3rd battery? Considering the ProMariner Pro Sport chargers. Not wanting to spend $500 for a high qualty one if at possible.

Thanks

JohnnyG

Simple math. I calculated your amplifiers to pull roughly 50 amps at full power with 90% efficiency. Your in line fuse ratings support this calculation. If your amplifiers can pull 50 amps at 12 volt when you push them, then you're gonna need at least that much charging power to keep the batteries from draining down.

Bottom line: you're way underpowered on the charger to maintain this draw indefinately.

John

US1 Fountain

iTrader: (1)

Hmmm, need more power! Guess a 20 amp charger isn't going to do it either then, other than possibly buy some more time.

Thanks

offthefront

iTrader: (1)

Holy Crap !!!!

BadDog

Jerry,
I know you like tools but this type can be pricy unless you have another use for them. Clamp on ammeters are available that will tell you how much current you are drawing through a conductor. There is another type that is field sensing. Not as accurate but will give you a baseline. With a current sensing meter you could see what the amp draws at various settings and compare that to what the charger is outputting.

http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_1/chpt_8/5.html
http://www.professionalequipment.com...ectric-meters/
http://www.professionalequipment.com...ectric-meters/

I have a field sensing meter that lies with the battery cable; I used this to see what my alt was putting out at various RPM and what happens when I switch on various loads. If nothing else it is a fun tool to play with. I discovered with the engine at idle and stereo cranked WFO alternator was not keeping up. Turning the stereo down to just below ear bleed and the alt was exceeding the amp and igniton requirements. Bump the idle up a tad and output nearly doubled. My amp gets hot enough to fry and egg on at max setting.