Winterizing
10-23-2007, 06:45 AM
#42
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Its just a regular sump pump, not a bilge pump. I don't know what the gph is on it but it more than keeps up with the motor at idle. It still blowing out of antifreeze at the water pickups at idle. If you bump up to about 1500 rpm it will take all of it. I would say about any old one would do.
Thanks, nice setup
10-23-2007, 06:53 PM
#44
What is the best way to winterize an engine with closed
cooling system and open exhoust cooling?
Excuse my english I am from Norway in Europe
By the way a very cold country in wintertime
cooling system and open exhoust cooling?
Excuse my english I am from Norway in Europe
By the way a very cold country in wintertime
10-23-2007, 07:17 PM
#45
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Check out my setup. Same deal here. No need to warm the engine up just run int for a minute or two. Don't forget to fog with 2 cycle oil via the fuel filter.
10-23-2007, 07:40 PM
#46
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I have found the easiest way for me to do it is like this. I took a 5 gallon bucket with a lid, cut two holes in the the lid, one for a vent/fill hole, one I put a length of PVC pipe that would reach the bottom of the bucket and a 90 fitting on top. Then pull the raw water hose from the gimble, put it on the pvc fitting at the top of the bucket and fire it up. I used a white bucket so I could see the fluid level. Let it run till it gets low, refill and repeat, fogging the engine this time as well. I figure running 8-9 gallons thru this way flushes out most of the water, it's how I've done it for some time now and knock on wood had good luck with it. I also stick two 5 gallon buckets under the pipes to catch the a/f coming out of the motor, I suppose I should test some of the recaptured a/f to see exactly what its freeze rating is.
10-24-2007, 08:18 PM
#47
Yes, I treated the gas with Stabil
I did a little test yesterday by placing 2 small plastic Gatorade bottles, capped in the freezer at about -10, one with the left over antifreeze from my winterizing that had a little dilution with water and one with straight -50 pink right out of the bottle. In 10 hours both were frozen to a very firm slush. The bottles had not expanded but It's makes me worry about the -50 stuff. I think I'm going to redo the winterizing with -100 RV just to be sure.
I did a little test yesterday by placing 2 small plastic Gatorade bottles, capped in the freezer at about -10, one with the left over antifreeze from my winterizing that had a little dilution with water and one with straight -50 pink right out of the bottle. In 10 hours both were frozen to a very firm slush. The bottles had not expanded but It's makes me worry about the -50 stuff. I think I'm going to redo the winterizing with -100 RV just to be sure.
10-27-2007, 11:20 AM
#48
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I'd say without question you are seriously well protected from freezing!
Another update to the freezer test. Last weekend I re-winterized both engines with Quicksilver -100 RV Antifreeze and placed a Gaterade bottle of the -100 in the freezer and after 5 days it had slightly gelled but still liquid. It cost more it's sure worth the piece of mind.
10-27-2007, 06:54 PM
#49
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Is there any reason to back off the rocker arm nuts to close the valves? That way there is less tension on the springs, maybe spring pressure will remain more consistent. I don't know if I need to do this or not.
11-11-2007, 10:33 AM
#50
FIERCE ALLEGIANCE
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I was curious so I stuck a bottle of pink antifreeze in the freezer over night. 10 hours at 0 degrees turned it into a slushy mess and expanded the bottle out. I did use the pink stuff to winterize but I also use 2 600watt xtreme heaters in the bilge. I have a lighted extention cord that I can see when it's hot so it's easy to know if power goes out. (at least at night you can) We don't get all that cold here in NC and my boat will spend most of the winter in Myrtle but with the $$$ spent this year on motor work...I'm not taking any chances. If you live where it get's cold...I suggest you do what you need to do so you're not on OSO come spring asking how to change out a cracked up motor.
