Running hot on port engine...
12-07-2007, 10:33 PM
#11
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I put everything back together as it was before I started and now I have nothing. I ran it for about a minute with nothing coming out of the exhaust. I am going to pull it again tomorrow I guess and try again. That sure does suck azz to do it again. It was a major PITA!!!
12-07-2007, 10:59 PM
#12
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It shouldn't take more than about 30 seconds to get some water out the exhaust.
The best thing to do after an impeller change is to start it in the water. I've had a brand new one fry itself on the hose.
It makes no difference how the veins are facing when you install the impeller. They will right themselves after a few rotations. Lube the impeller with liquid dishsoap when its installed.
The best thing to do after an impeller change is to start it in the water. I've had a brand new one fry itself on the hose.
It makes no difference how the veins are facing when you install the impeller. They will right themselves after a few rotations. Lube the impeller with liquid dishsoap when its installed.
12-07-2007, 11:16 PM
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Thanks Griff. I did lube it up with some soap and I don't understand why it's not working. Tomorrow is a new day my brother and I hope I can get it worked out. You were correct about being a contorsionist...my back is gonna be sore as hell tomorrow!!! Thanks bro....
Chuck
Chuck
12-08-2007, 05:15 AM
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Just thought of the Bravo syndrome! The water inlet at the inner transom plate closes-up due to salt build-up. Go behind the engine and remove the inlet hose from the plastic gooseneck on the inner transom plate. Then carefully remove the two small bolts that hold it on. See if the hole is restricted.
12-08-2007, 06:58 PM
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When replacing the impeller always replace the housing if it is plastic. Make sure you replace the wearplate and "O" ring. AND make sure when you install the pump housing on the shaft you don't disrupt the "O" ring on the impeller body. if you do it will not pump water. GOOD LUCK !!
12-09-2007, 09:59 AM
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Does Bam sell a metal housing? If not who is a good vendor to get one from? Thanks for the help.
Chuck
Chuck
When replacing the impeller always replace the housing if it is plastic. Make sure you replace the wearplate and "O" ring. AND make sure when you install the pump housing on the shaft you don't disrupt the "O" ring on the impeller body. if you do it will not pump water. GOOD LUCK !!
12-09-2007, 01:16 PM
#17
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The metal housings are a pain in the a$$ to put on. There are more plates and gaskets and you would need the end part with water fittings. The metal setup is near impossible to change an impeller unless you take off the entire bracket for the seapump. The rebuild kit, not including the actual housing, is almost the same price as the entire plastic housing impeller kit.
I would just replace the plastic/composite housing. WAY easier.
I would just replace the plastic/composite housing. WAY easier.
12-09-2007, 11:01 PM
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Got everything back together today and took her out for a run. I am still getting about 220-230 degrees on both engines after running hard for 10-15 minutes.
When I was rooting around the engine room I saw the starboard engine has the old style water pump housing that consists of 2 pieces instead of the newer one piece housings.
The previous owner must have changed the port side only to the newer one.
I am starting to get the feeling that he was having a problem with overheating as well due to the fact that the housing and the impeller looked brand new when I removed them and there is a brand new t-stat in the cuddy locker.
Both engines were putting out quite a bit of white steam/smoke but the starboard side was def. worse than the port.
I am also having a problem with the starboard engine dieing when at idle and not wanting to start after it heats up a bit.(20 minutes or so)
I just hope we can get all the bugs worked out before the real season starts down here. I guess we shouldn't expect much out of a boat that sat in south Florida untouched for about 9 months......
When I was rooting around the engine room I saw the starboard engine has the old style water pump housing that consists of 2 pieces instead of the newer one piece housings.
The previous owner must have changed the port side only to the newer one.
I am starting to get the feeling that he was having a problem with overheating as well due to the fact that the housing and the impeller looked brand new when I removed them and there is a brand new t-stat in the cuddy locker.
Both engines were putting out quite a bit of white steam/smoke but the starboard side was def. worse than the port.
I am also having a problem with the starboard engine dieing when at idle and not wanting to start after it heats up a bit.(20 minutes or so)
I just hope we can get all the bugs worked out before the real season starts down here. I guess we shouldn't expect much out of a boat that sat in south Florida untouched for about 9 months......
12-09-2007, 11:38 PM
#19
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If both engines are getting hot then I would suspect that there is some salt or corrosion build up in the water inlets as Ed suggested. Those engines should run below 160* during a hard run. Don't let them get over 200* or you are going to hurt them.
Weren't your alarms going off??? They should have been.
I would start with the inlet pieces at the transom assembly that Ed suggested. You can check water flow by disconnecting the hose at the inlet and hooking up muffs. You should get a good flow of water. You could also run some salt-away through and let it break up any salt deposits in the water jackets on the drive. Tape over the intake holes on the drive, fill from the inner hose and let some salt-away sit in the drive for a while. Maybe leave one hole open to let air out while you're filling.
From there, I would change out both TStats. They should have 140* Tstats in them and should run 145* on the guage. Are you sure that your sea pump belts are tight???? Just tossing out ideas.
Weren't your alarms going off??? They should have been.
I would start with the inlet pieces at the transom assembly that Ed suggested. You can check water flow by disconnecting the hose at the inlet and hooking up muffs. You should get a good flow of water. You could also run some salt-away through and let it break up any salt deposits in the water jackets on the drive. Tape over the intake holes on the drive, fill from the inner hose and let some salt-away sit in the drive for a while. Maybe leave one hole open to let air out while you're filling.
From there, I would change out both TStats. They should have 140* Tstats in them and should run 145* on the guage. Are you sure that your sea pump belts are tight???? Just tossing out ideas.
12-10-2007, 10:04 AM
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Ed, if you read this I was wondering how long you ran the boat on the sea trial because we ran it for about 30 minutes and it started getting hot. Did it not do that on sea trial? I'm just curious.
Chuck[/QUOTE]
The sea trial was run at idle, cruising and wide-open RPMs. The whole thing took about 40 minutes because of the no-wake areas. The wide-open time was only long enough to get readings, so I did not run it long enough heat it up. Most sellers will not run wide-open for more than a few minutes. Gauge readings never got over 155.
Chuck[/QUOTE]
The sea trial was run at idle, cruising and wide-open RPMs. The whole thing took about 40 minutes because of the no-wake areas. The wide-open time was only long enough to get readings, so I did not run it long enough heat it up. Most sellers will not run wide-open for more than a few minutes. Gauge readings never got over 155.
